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Old 05-23-2008, 07:44 AM   #11
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QSis pics are beautiful. With just salt, or on bread with lots of mayo, salt & pepper, or BLT, OMG!
It's not even beakfast and I'm drooling!

Thanks for the pics.
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:34 AM   #12
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QSis is dead on. Herbs, about 6" and don't pick more than 1/3 at a time. Pinching back allows plants to get bushy rather than leggy and going to seed.
Please forgive my ignorance. I'm not exactly sure what you're saying. What does "pinching back" mean? Does bushy = "wide diameter" and leggy = "tall and narrow"? Sorry, I'm a bit more mathy in my approach to things. :S

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Herbs like rich, drainable soil and not kept too wet. Let the soil dry between watering and not sit in water.
If you just remember where there natural environment is and duplicate it, everything should thrive. Most of all, enjoy!
Well, we bought a big old bag of soft black soil to put them in. What does "drainable" mean?

I'm as new to this as a Floridian to the Canadian winter, so I'd appreciate dumbing things down as much as possible. :)
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Old 05-23-2008, 07:44 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Medwayman View Post
Please forgive my ignorance. I'm not exactly sure what you're saying. What does "pinching back" mean? Does bushy = "wide diameter" and leggy = "tall and narrow"? Sorry, I'm a bit more mathy in my approach to things. :S

Well, we bought a big old bag of soft black soil to put them in. What does "drainable" mean?

I'm as new to this as a Floridian to the Canadian winter, so I'd appreciate dumbing things down as much as possible. :)
Hi, Medwayman. Pinching back generally means pinching, with your fingers, the tips of plants' stems. This causes them to develop fuller side growth (bushy) rather than fewer long stems (leggy). Plants usually grow new stems where they've been cut or pinched.

re: the soil, thick, heavy soil composed of lots of clay doesn't drain water very well, so plant roots will sit in water and rot. At the other extreme, sandy soil drains too well - it doesn't hold water long enough for plant roots to take it up, so they need to be watered constantly.

Take a handful of your soil and squeeze it together. The kind of soil you want will hold together - not in a tight ball, but it won't just fall apart, like a handful of sand. HTH.
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Old 05-23-2008, 09:52 PM   #14
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Thank you Gotgarlic. Sorry Medwayman, just getting back to the site. Gotgarlic's correct. You should lighten the soil with perelite, or vermiculite, and some sand for drainage.
The saying is "fryable". It should be like chocolate cake, when it's cooked, coold, and squeezed in your hand. - It holds together, but breaks apart easy.

......And don't say "Dumb down". Everyone's new at something. It's great that anyone trys something new and knows enough to ask. Your welcome.
You'll do fine. Like orchids, which are very easy to grow, don't kill them with kindness.
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Old 05-25-2008, 12:35 PM   #15
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I'm not an expert but know that tomatoes are very thirsty plants, so you probably need to leave room at the top of the pot for watering (can be up to a gallon a day) - and make sure they get some tomato food once a week. If the leaves turn yellow, they definitely need food. We tend to grow tomatoes in greenhouses in the UK - and supporting them on stakes/trellis is common.

From memory, once the first truss of flowers "set" - we used to pinch out the growing tip at the top of the plant - this seemed to encourage sideshoots/more flower trusses - and we used to get good cropping. We put marigold plants round the base of tomatoes to keep the greenfly at bay.

I have a feeling that keeping the watering consistent also helps prevent the fruits from splitting - ..... hmm, must think a little more about that.

Hope that helps.

Margaret
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