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View Poll Results: Does your kitchen have caulk along the baseboards?
Yes 5 31.25%
No 11 68.75%
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:42 AM   #21
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1/4 round will work on the cabinet. As for the base moulding, the one piece of tile in the corner wasn't set properly. If you want it perfectly flush, you would need to scribe the moulding using a set of dividers or a compass. Then shape the bottom of the trim to fit flush against the floor. The very last pic looks like you could push the trim down to meet the floor.

If it's too much work, I suppose you could use caulk. Or leave it be and get some ant spray. The apartment I used to live in would get crickets....I absolutely despise crickets. I applied one of those perimeter sprays and it seemed to work pretty good.
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Old 08-04-2008, 10:47 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeekinz View Post
1/4 round will work on the cabinet. As for the base moulding, the one piece of tile in the corner wasn't set properly. If you want it perfectly flush, you would need to scribe the moulding using a set of dividers or a compass. Then shape the bottom of the trim to fit flush against the floor. The very last pic looks like you could push the trim down to meet the floor.

If it's too much work, I suppose you could use caulk. Or leave it be and get some ant spray. The apartment I used to live in would get crickets....I absolutely despise crickets. I applied one of those perimeter sprays and it seemed to work pretty good.
Wow, that sounds complicated. I'm not sure what scribe means or what you would do with dividers or a compass, or what it means to fit flush--but maybe DH will. I would like to do this thing right if I can though. I've tried an indoor and an outdoor barrier spray, but somehow they keep coming back in--just not as bad. I'm beginning to wonder if they just live under the tile and come up where the tile and carpet meets.Hmmm, I see two ants there right now. Anyway, the people who lived here last thought they'd save money by doing everything themselves so the place is falling apart.

Anyway, so the bar and all the cupboard linings look the same as the one in the picture. And you're saying a 1/4 round would do the trick for those? And my base boards are actually caulked on the top. It looks like they're set in place pretty well, is it really possible to adjust any of them? (The people who did this all had an obsession with this really strong wood glue and it is everywhere, I'm afraid they may have glued the baseboards to the wall with it. They even used it to put up wall paper in one room!!!)
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:04 AM   #23
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Ugh. If they used construction adhesive, you're screwed. There's no way to remove something without damaging everything that was stuck to it. So you would be repairing walls, etc.

Here's an option. Look at an interior door jamb. The trim that the door butts up to is called "door stop moulding". You could scribe, then run something simillar to that along the floor in front of the existing trim. Like a built up moulding. You could try it with 3/4" quarter round but it may be a little difficult.

Here's how you scribe using a compass. Set the compass equal to the widest gap. Use a coping saw or even a sanding block to shape the trim. Back bevel it a couple degrees for a nice finished look.
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:08 AM   #24
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Thanks! Looks like I've got a real fun project for a rainy day. (Or a really hot one since it doesn't rain here). Thanks for the tips!
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:10 AM   #25
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Here's what you want to end up with:

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Old 08-04-2008, 02:56 PM   #26
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Ooh, thanks for the picture, that helps a lot!

And here is the reason for this thread--here are the ants feasting on a dropped piece of zucchini bread: (Not sure what to do to keep ants out of this broken place under the counter).
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Old 08-04-2008, 03:34 PM   #27
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Jeekins is certainly giving giving the right advise, what a shame they didn't take more care, scribing a new baseboard is a devil of a job but about the only way you can do it other than puling the boards off and starting again. Other than using a compass you could lay a thin block on the floor, about the same thickness a the widest gap, and use that as a scriber.
you still have the problem of the top being uneven though.
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