My comments/questions above.
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Depending on your situation, you don't have to go through the roof to vent. My hood vents straight back through the wall to the outdoors".
True. You can vent out the roof or out of an outside wall. In my circumstance going through a wall would be much more difficult. You still need to make room/cut for the duct work no matter.
My hood had the option of top venting or venting out the back of the hood.
"I don't understand this comment. Please explain".
Gas broilers to me are like cooking under a camp fire instead of cooking over a campfire. Heat rises and I guess my critical thinking all the time gets in the way.
I guess electric broilers would be just as inefficient.
You can center a 10" diameter pot on the back simmer burner Kgirl.
However, all of the burners will go down to a very low simmer.
Because of that, I seldom use the little back burner that's only intended for an even lower temp.
Can you explain? How does adjusting a single burner effect the other burners?
I have never owned a gas range. So please excuse my lack of knowledge concerning their use.
If you do a lot stove top grilling I think it's essential to have venting that vents outside.
It should be a requirement IMO.
Okay, so wait a minute guys.
Are you folks saying that I should have a hood that vents to the exterior if I get this GE gas range?
The builder includes a GE micro/hood, could I ask to change that and have a for real vented hood do you think?
I still have time, the construction won't start for about 3-4 months, they're REALLY behind.
Now is the time to get what you want. Change orders are expensive even before you change anything. So decide what you want and get it in writing.
You WANT and you NEED a hood that vents to the outside if you are a serious cook.
If you are a very serious cook, I would be looking at commercial quality.
I'm guessing a 30", but we'll check on that stuff before we order anything...
AND THEN, is it too weird to have different brands, say a Samsung range and a GE `fridge and dishwasher?
Go as big as you can afford. Buy your new range to last you for a lifetime.
By as big as possible and buy the very best quality you can afford.
30 inches is too small. IMHO.
Call me crazy but I love my GE microwave above the stove. It has a really powerful fan that vents to the outside, and I've yet to have any smoke problems. It's very easy to clean underneath unlike my old one. It's very quiet too, and I like not giving counter space to a separate microwave. JMHO
Have a cabinet space dedicated to the microwave. No need to set on the counter. Just talk to the builder about a space for the microwave.
Make sure they install a receptacle in the back of the space.
To the one that asked, our broiler is below the main oven and only has one spot to broil.
It is a drawer you pull open.
Aw yes, thats how I remember a gas broiler. Its been 50 years since I saw one like that. My grandmother had the pull out broiler.
If I ever win the lottery, contractors and electricians will hate us. It will be done to our specs not the builders. Yes it will be more expensive.
To the contrary, we will love you. The more you spend on your home, the more money we make.
We also love change orders. So change away. The contractor will love you for it.
BTW....How many LED recessed lighting fixtures are you having installed.
Remember. LED is where its at and they are very frugal with use of electricity. Try for LED everywhere possible.
They look better, are brighter, can be dimmed and use less than half the power of a CFL lamp/bulb.
This is your chance to get it right the first time.
One of the things we would change would be the studs of the entire house. Hubby wants 2 by 6 instead of 2 by 4 for better insulation. Besides I wouldn't want to live in a cookie cutter community. I'd be worried my neighbor would come home drunk but to the wrong house.
I know a couple of cabinet builders.
As long as he meant all the outside walls of the house, I'm on board.
But 2x4 construction with expanding insulation can have the same or better R rating as 2x6 construction.
How do studs insulate? I thought insulation between the studs provided insulation
Our house was built in 1910 with real 2x4s and huge nails, but no insulation. Previous owners added that.
Thicker walls allow for thicker insulation. 2x6 walls afford the ability to increase the R value.
Our house is also built with true size lumber. Was built in the early 1950's.