Saggy bottom saute pan

[tenspeed]

I couldn't decide whether my saute pan is convex or concave, as it depends upon your perspective, so I'm going with the unambiguous saggy bottom.

I have a 12" anodized Calphalon saute pan, which has had regular use over the last 15 years. When placed on a flat surface, it rests on the center, and the periphery of the pan is about 3/16" off the surface. It's pretty uniform, and not warped. It won't stay level on the stove.

We have had a gas cooktop for the last 5 years (used to have electric), and it seems to have developed this since the change. I'm careful not to pour liquid in too quickly when I deglaze the pan.

Is there anything that can be done so make the pan flat again, or do I just need to replace it when I can't stand a rocking pan any longer? I've thought about putting it under the car with a hydraulic jack on top of it to put a ton or so of force on it, but not sure how I could control how much it flattens the pan, assuming it's enough force to straighten it.

 

[Mad Cook]

I couldn't decide whether my saute pan is convex or concave, as it depends upon your perspective, so I'm going with the unambiguous saggy bottom.

I have a 12" anodized Calphalon saute pan, which has had regular use over the last 15 years. When placed on a flat surface, it rests on the center, and the periphery of the pan is about 3/16" off the surface. It's pretty uniform, and not warped. It won't stay level on the stove.

We have had a gas cooktop for the last 5 years (used to have electric), and it seems to have developed this since the change. I'm careful not to pour liquid in too quickly when I deglaze the pan.

Is there anything that can be done so make the pan flat again, or do I just need to replace it when I can't stand a rocking pan any longer? I've thought about putting it under the car with a hydraulic jack on top of it to put a ton or so of force on it, but not sure how I could control how much it flattens the pan, assuming it's enough force to straighten it.

I'm inclined to think it's time to retire it. After all, after 15 years it doesn't owe you anything. Do you have a nice relative who will pick up on hints about an early birthday present?

The warping is most likely to be due to heat. Gas jets get very hot - hotter I find than electric hotplates although this may only be the electric hotplates that I've had dealings with.

It's just occurred to me. Would it be feasible to get hold of a wok ring so the pan sits still over the burner? It would rather depend on the design of the pan supports as to whether this idea would work.

 

[Andy M.]

If you have a wood workbench or similar, place the pan face down on the surface near the edge so the handle is off in mid-air so the entire pan rim is on the bench surface.

Using a rubber mallet or a hammer and a block of wood, pound the hump down level. You should be able to do this with no harm to the pan. Aluminum is fairly soft so it should be easily 'adjustable'.

 

[taxlady]

If Andy's suggestion doesn't work, it would probably still be good for camping.

 

[Sir_Loin_of_Beef]

If I remember correctly, Calphalon is guaranteed for life, so unless it has a valid death certificate, take it to someplace like Bed Bugs and Beyond and they should give you a new pan just like it, free-fer-nuthin.

 

[Addie]

Welcome to DC. tenspeed. Lots of suggestion will come your way. But if you can get to BB&B take it back and make them live up to their guarantee. Tell them you received it as a gift 15 years ago and the woman who gave it to you said she bought it at BB&B. I doubt they will check their records for 15 years ago.

 

[Kayelle]

It's worth a try with BB&B, but not all Calphalon is guaranteed for life..
Calphalon - Warranty Information

 

[puffin3]

Once metal has stretched there's no fixing it.
Retire it to a thrift store.

 

[Roll_Bones]

If you have a wood workbench or similar, place the pan face down on the surface near the edge so the handle is off in mid-air so the entire pan rim is on the bench surface.

Using a rubber mallet or a hammer and a block of wood, pound the hump down level. You should be able to do this with no harm to the pan. Aluminum is fairly soft so it should be easily 'adjustable'.

I have done this before and it will work just fine.
I did it last on a Calphalon saute pan.

 

[tenspeed]

I have done this before and it will work just fine.
I did it last on a Calphalon saute pan.

How hard did you have to hit it? I have a fairly hefty soft face hammer, so it should be more effective than a rubber mallet. I don't want to make it sag the other way!

It didn't occur to me that this was even possible, as the bottom is fairly thick. It's worth a try, though. Thanks for the tip!

 

[Andy M.]

IF you have a piece of 2x4 or similar, use it between the pot and the hammer. Tht will insure you can't hammer it past being flat.

 

[tenspeed]

IF you have a piece of 2x4 or similar, use it between the pot and the hammer. Tht will insure you can't hammer it past being flat.

Good idea! Thank you.

 

[Roll_Bones]

How hard did you have to hit it? I have a fairly hefty soft face hammer, so it should be more effective than a rubber mallet. I don't want to make it sag the other way!

It didn't occur to me that this was even possible, as the bottom is fairly thick. It's worth a try, though. Thanks for the tip!

Good idea! Thank you.

It is thick, but aluminum is soft and bends easily with some force.
Just hit it in the middle with the pan upside down.

You MUST have the rim of this pan laying on a hard flat surface. The handle will need to hang off to the side to accomplish this. Since you cannot remove the handle and there is absolutely no reason too remove it, you must ensure when you whack the underside of the pan, the rim is laying flat.
Its easy and if you over do it, you can turn it over and knock it back some.
I promise this is not a big deal and is very easy to do.

 

[tenspeed]

Success!!!!!

This works!!!! I used a foot long piece of 2x4 with the 4 inch vertical and then started hammering. I could gauge progress by how much the 2x4 would rock. It didn't take as much hammering as I thought it would. It's not quite perfectly flat, as I think the wood gives just a bit when hammering it. It doesn't rock on the burner on the stove, so it's flat enough. I would probably have to hit the pan directly with the hammer to get the last bit of sag out, but it's not worth it.

Thank you so much for the tips.

 

[Addie]

This works!!!! I used a foot long piece of 2x4 with the 4 inch vertical and then started hammering. I could gauge progress by how much the 2x4 would rock. It didn't take as much hammering as I thought it would. It's not quite perfectly flat, as I think the wood gives just a bit when hammering it. It doesn't rock on the burner on the stove, so it's flat enough. I would probably have to hit the pan directly with the hammer to get the last bit of sag out, but it's not worth it.

Thank you so much for the tips.

Quit while you are ahead. If it ain't broken anymore, then don't fix it anymore.

And has anyone given you a BIG welcome? I know I gave you one earlier, but I just want to say from one New Englander to another, Welcome aboard. So glad the folks here were able to help you.

It seems no matter what the problem, you can find a solution to your cooking dilemma here. Sometimes I am absolutely amazed at the problems these folks have solutions for.

 

[Andy M.]

This works!!!! I used a foot long piece of 2x4 with the 4 inch vertical and then started hammering. I could gauge progress by how much the 2x4 would rock. It didn't take as much hammering as I thought it would. It's not quite perfectly flat, as I think the wood gives just a bit when hammering it. It doesn't rock on the burner on the stove, so it's flat enough. I would probably have to hit the pan directly with the hammer to get the last bit of sag out, but it's not worth it.

Thank you so much for the tips.

If you feel up to it, consider placing the end of the 2x4 on the pan and hit the other end to get the rest of the bump.

 

[lyndalou]

Welcome to DC. tenspeed. Lots of suggestion will come your way. But if you can get to BB&B take it back and make them live up to their guarantee. Tell them you received it as a gift 15 years ago and the woman who gave it to you said she bought it at BB&B. I doubt they will check their records for 15 years ago.

I doubt that any retail store will give you a replacement after 15 years if you don't have a receipt for the purchase. The lifetime guarantee is from the manufacturer, not the point of purchase.

 

[taxlady]

I doubt that any retail store will give you a replacement after 15 years if you don't have a receipt for the purchase. The lifetime guarantee is from the manufacturer, not the point of purchase.

But, some stores will do that sort of thing, if they carry that manufacturer's products, as PR. We were in a local big box hardware store and saw them do that for customer who asked for parts for his Moen faucet. He was told not to bother, here's a new Moen faucet. "No, we don't need the receipt."

 

[Andy M.]

But, some stores will do that sort of thing, if they carry that manufacturer's products, as PR. We were in a local big box hardware store and saw them do that for customer who asked for parts for his Moen faucet. He was told not to bother, here's a new Moen faucet. "No, we don't need the receipt."

The Moen faucet I bought for my kitchen sink has a lifetime guarantee. I just call Moen and they mail me a replacement.

 

[Addie]

But, some stores will do that sort of thing, if they carry that manufacturer's products, as PR. We were in a local big box hardware store and saw them do that for customer who asked for parts for his Moen faucet. He was told not to bother, here's a new Moen faucet. "No, we don't need the receipt."

Exactly. If a store carries a product, it is implied that the store will honor the manufacturer's guarantee.