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Old 02-10-2012, 12:16 AM   #21
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I'm really happy with my 270 mm Supreme. I actually bought it used from a member of another forum. The edge was in bad shape, really dull. I was in a hurry so I put an initial edge on it with my Kalamazoo belt grinder. My intention was just to do this to try it out and give it a proper going over with water stones a few days later, but it's so spectacularly sharp that I've resigned myself to waiting until it's truly dull before I do anything else.
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Old 02-10-2012, 01:58 PM   #22
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That's inspiring - I'm really interested to try a knife that's really super sharp. The HD is sharp, but I don't think it's THAT sharp. I'm sure it can get sharper as well...once I finish learning properly (getting a Tilt Box II - same idea as an Angle Cube - today from Lee Valley, which should help with angles).

The Deluxe should be a whole different experience.
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Old 02-15-2012, 06:05 PM   #23
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Rob (or anyone else, of course!), any recommendations for setting the initial edge? It didn't come particularly sharp, so I've got to spend some time with it.

Should I go double bevel? Straight down to 10*? Anything else? I'm willing to give it a try!

Thanks!
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:11 AM   #24
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The answer to your question is that it depends on what you will be using your knife for. The strongest edge is called a convex edge, followed by a compound bevel. After that, most Asian knives feature a single bevel, or chisel grind of about 16'. A V bevel can get very sharp as well, but doesn't hold its edge as well, as it can fold over more easily, especially at acute angles.

Myself, I prefer the convex bevel as it can be made razor sharp, and resists folding. It doesn't phisically feel as sharp if you run your thumb accross it. But you can lift newsprint of of a newspapeer. The downside is that unless you have a good strop, that's impregnated with very fine jeweler's rouge, it is more difficult to maintain the proper edge shape.

And, the smaller angles - 16 ' to 20', are less sturdy as there is less metal to support the edge shape. They can and will fold to the side easily, hense the reason for realining the edge with a steel.

A compound bezel features a V shape, but has two angles built into the edge shape. There is a 16' or so angle with respect to the vertical. But as you get to the edge, the sharpening angle is changed to 20, or even 30 degrees in an effort to make the final cutting edge more resistant to folding over.

Personal preference, and experience, what you use yoru knife for, and the quality of the steel often will determine which grind you use.

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Old 02-18-2012, 03:10 PM   #25
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Thanks Chief. As a home cook who doesn't have any imposing need for much, I think that I've come to the realization that maintaining the factory edge and improving on it slightly when required will be all I need.

Also, it's a much sharper knife than I thought.
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:17 PM   #26
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Quote:
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Also, it's a much sharper knife than I thought.
They lie in wait and when you think they have gotten dull they bite ya...
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:20 AM   #27
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Quote:
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Rob (or anyone else, of course!), any recommendations for setting the initial edge? It didn't come particularly sharp, so I've got to spend some time with it.

Should I go double bevel? Straight down to 10*? Anything else? I'm willing to give it a try!

Thanks!
It would probably hold an edge @ 10 * but I personally don't go that low even on Aogami or SRS-15. I generally set the bevel at around 13-15 degrees.
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:32 PM   #28
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Thanks Rob, I'll probably just hold it steady at my usual 13'ish and leave it at that. I appreciate the feedback!
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:00 AM   #29
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Thanks Rob, I'll probably just hold it steady at my usual 13'ish and leave it at that. I appreciate the feedback!
For a 1 inch wide blade does 13'ish amount to the spine being elevated off the stone by ~7/32" ?
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Old 02-28-2012, 07:30 AM   #30
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Well congratulations on obtaining new knives and a NEW WIFE.
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