Originally Posted by Rob Babcock
I've heard the Yoshi is a real bear to sharpen, supposedly clings pretty stubbornly to the burr. Have you found that to be the case, Buzz?
The sharpening "problem" is a byproduct of its greatest asset. The steel is extremely tough (abrasion resistant). It is similar to L6 or the Gokinko steel used in the Aritsugu A series knives.
The biggest gripes I've seen were from those doing major thinning of the SKD blade by hand. This is work for a motorized belt and I would send it to someone like Dave Martell
to do the work for me. I don't find burr removal difficult with SKD. There are four techniques I use. One is to use a slicing motion through either cork or rubber. The remaining three are all trailing edge stropping motions with no pressure, the most common being on the stone that created the burr. The second is on brass, any kind of brass, a candlestick, lampshade, what have you. I use a quarter inch angle I picked up in a hardware store. The third is the hard felt Hand American pads and this is the best technique of all. Unfortunately the pads are unavailable at the present time but there might be a few up for grabs at the Hand American closeout sale
on August 17th. I for one will be checking it out.
Once the Yoshie is sharp it stays that way as long as any blade I've seen so far. Touch ups are the same as any knife, three very light alternating strokes per side on a ceramic steel
. Not to wander too far beyond burr removal, but don't use steel or diamond rods on any knife. Modern technology makes fine ceramic rods such as the Idahone superior no matter what they teach in culinary schools.
Here's my 240 SKD. Too bad the Stefan handle cost as much as the knife itself....