Knife Set

[Jeekinz]

I agree with the majority of the info already posted. However, I have seen some seriously sharp cheapo serrated bread knives. I would put most of my money on a chef, paring, utility or boning knife. Dont forget to pick up a WOODEN cutting board and a steel preferrable from the manufacturer of the knives.

 

[buzzard767]

I agree with the majority of the info already posted. However, I have seen some seriously sharp cheapo serrated bread knives. I would put most of my money on a chef, paring, utility or boning knife. Dont forget to pick up a WOODEN cutting board and a steel preferrable from the manufacturer of the knives.

chefmenot - don't bother with a grooved steel or you'll never reach the potential of a Japanese knife. They are files and hack up a fine edge. When viewed under magnification the edge looks like the Himalayas. Check out the Verhoeven Study, page 12.

"Steels" to use:
3. Glass smooth steel for soft edges like German knives.
2. Ceramics - V_E_R_Y lightly
1. Borosilicate glass with micro grooves - works on soft and hard steel - the only one I bother using nowadays. It extends the time between sharpening sessions.

 

[EastWestknives]

I'll put my two cents in with the petty knife. A huge chef knife makes you feel like King Arthur and everything, but something more manageable ends up making itself more useful in my kitchen.

Here's mine.

https://www.newwestknifeworks.com/store/phoenixknivesitem/petty

And another good medium sized knife.

https://www.newwestknifeworks.com/store/fusionwoodknivesitem/chopper

 

[Rob Babcock]

I'll put my two cents in with the petty knife. A huge chef knife makes you feel like King Arthur and everything, but something more manageable ends up making itself more useful in my kitchen.

Here's mine.

https://www.newwestknifeworks.com/store/phoenixknivesitem/petty

And another good medium sized knife.

https://www.newwestknifeworks.com/store/fusionwoodknivesitem/chopper

Pretty neat looking knives. What is the handle material- some type of polymer or composite?

 

[Caine]

If you want something completely different, try URI Eagle Ceramic Knives. You can select either the zirconium oxide (white) or zirconium carbide (black), for less than half what they charge for Kyocera cermaic knives, and they stay sharp pretty much forever. Ming Tsai uses the Kyocera knives, but number one, he's rich, and number two, Kyocera gives him the knives free fer nuthin.

You do have to be careful not to abuse them, because they have no flexibility and they will break under severe duress, like if you drop one on a hard surface, such as a granite counter top or ceramic tile floor, or if you attempt to use it for a purpose niot intended, such as a screwdriver or pry bar.

 

[buzzard767]

You do have to be careful not to abuse them, because they have no flexibility and they will break under severe duress, like if you drop one on a hard surface, such as a granite counter top or ceramic tile floor, or if you attempt to use it for a purpose niot intended, such as a screwdriver or pry bar.

And, contrary to popular belief, they can be sharpened at home, but it takes the right equipment and patience. Also, they can't be sharpened to insane angles because they are too brittle to take on any rough handling.

I prefer steel mostly carbon, and a couple of stainless like 13C26. There is a head of cabbage shaking in its boots in my fridge because it knows this Murray Carter 6.7 sun Funayuki is going to have its way with it after the Indy 500. This knife is a High Grade in Hitachi White steel sharpened at around 6 to 8 degrees per side, best I've ever seen out of the box.

 

[DrThunder88]

6-8 degrees per side? Dang, that is sharp.

 

[buzzard767]

6-8 degrees per side? Dang, that is sharp.

Dr. T, that is Murray's edge. He is really good. This knife and a few others with such acute edges require freehand sharpening. My only mechanical device is an EdgePro Apex but the minimum capability is 10 degrees so it can't be used without losing sharpness. I have learned that I cannot reproduce an edge like Murray or Dave Martell, but with careful stropping I can reproduce about 90% of the original slicing ability. In itself, 90% is very sharp and the blades are capable of push cutting paper about an inch away from my pinchgrip on the top of the page. Tomatoes and celery beware....

Buzz

 

[Leolady]

On TV late last night, I saw a truly incredible knife set!

Chef Tony showed how one can cut a pineapple in two in mid-air! They are called "Miracle Blades".

And you can get 2 sets for only $39.99!

 

[buzzard767]

No doubt a bargain at ten times the price. From the Miracle Blade web site FAQ:

What is the distinct feature of the knives such as the Rock 'n Chop and the Chop 'n Scoop? The feature is the Acu-Grip Control Ball and its unique design that actually helps you chop. What is the purpose of the quick release for the Miracle Blade® Rock 'n Chop? It releases the food from the knife so the food does not stick
Oh man, how have I been able to survive without these features....

Mousing around the site lead me to a statement that edge grain cutting boards are not as good as end grain. True enough. Then I found a picture of their board - you got it - edge grain. LOL

As P.T. Barnum said.....

 

[Leolady]

.....There is a sucker born every minute.....LOL

 

[Caine]

Chef Tony showed how one can cut a pineapple in two in mid-air!

I think Mr. Miyagi did that in Karate Kid III.

 

[Caine]

I have a 6-inch URI Eagle Zirconium Oxide (white) Chef's knife, which I bought strictly for chopping vegetables, especially lettuce, because ceramic will not cause the lettuce to turn brown like metal does. I will most likely never have to sharpen this knife in my life time, nor will my son when he inherits it. My granddaughter might have to send it back to the manufacturer for sharpening, though.

 

[ironchef]

Some good and throrough advice on knives. As for the vegetable peeler, it's a matter of ergonomics but I prefer the Swiss style peelers:

Kuhn Rikon The Original Swiss Peeler: Stainless Steel - Kuhn Rikon Kitchen Tools

It's more efficient because you can peel in longer strokes since you're moving the peeler towards you rather than away from you.

 

[Andy M.]

Some good and throrough advice on knives. As for the vegetable peeler, it's a matter of ergonomics but I prefer the Swiss style peelers:

Kuhn Rikon The Original Swiss Peeler: Stainless Steel - Kuhn Rikon Kitchen Tools

It's more efficient because you can peel in longer strokes since you're moving the peeler towards you rather than away from you.

I use the more common straight one and peel in long strokes away from me. Actually, I can peel from one end of a vegetable to the other in both directions.

I find that peeling towards me sometimes results in the peel's getting in the way of the next stroke.

 

[ironchef]

I use the more common straight one and peel in long strokes away from me. Actually, I can peel from one end of a vegetable to the other in both directions.

I find that peeling towards me sometimes results in the peel's getting in the way of the next stroke.

Like I said, it's a matter of ergonomics. But most of the people that I've worked with in different professional kitchens all use the swiss-style. Even when we have friendly potato peeling competitions, the swiss-style peelers always win vs. someone who has the straight type peelers.

But, like a knife, get what's the most comfortable to use.

 

[Andy M.]

I agree IC. Although I have never had a friendly potato peeling competition.

 

[chefmenot]

As always, I appreciate all the input people are throwing out.
This weekend, I went to BBB and Macy's to check out knives. I didn't see any of the Japanese knives I was looking for, but I did get a feel of some calphalon (sp), wusthof, and henkels. I didn't like most of the cal or henkels all that much and the wustoff ones that seemed good to me were the classics...they had gourmet and two something series but wasn't favorable to them as they seemed heavier and bulky. Also, in trying out different ones, I found my wife really wants a good 4-5" petty/all purpose knife. I'll try to better explain since I don't know the terminology. When you hold the knife there seems to be 3 different styles. 1.) the blade runs flush with the handle, 2.) the blade goes to the edge of the handle then abruptly drops leaving a kinda sharp edge, 3.) the blade runs close to the handle, blunt but smooth edge that contours to the index finger....she likes the third one the most, but wouldn't mind the first style if the third one isn't available but definitely not the second style.

So, I was disappointed that I wasn't able to walk out with any knives, I still managed to buy a large bamboo cutting board as a starter.

 

[ironchef]

As always, I appreciate all the input people are throwing out.
This weekend, I went to BBB and Macy's to check out knives. I didn't see any of the Japanese knives I was looking for, but I did get a feel of some calphalon (sp), wusthof, and henkels. I didn't like most of the cal or henkels all that much and the wustoff ones that seemed good to me were the classics...they had gourmet and two something series but wasn't favorable to them as they seemed heavier and bulky. Also, in trying out different ones, I found my wife really wants a good 4-5" petty/all purpose knife. I'll try to better explain since I don't know the terminology. When you hold the knife there seems to be 3 different styles. 1.) the blade runs flush with the handle, 2.) the blade goes to the edge of the handle then abruptly drops leaving a kinda sharp edge, 3.) the blade runs close to the handle, blunt but smooth edge that contours to the index finger....she likes the third one the most, but wouldn't mind the first style if the third one isn't available but definitely not the second style.

So, I was disappointed that I wasn't able to walk out with any knives, I still managed to buy a large bamboo cutting board as a starter.

The heavier knives (European brands) are usually the better quality ones because the weight usually means that it has a full tang, which means that the metal from the blade continues into the handle in one full piece. The lighter knives, which are usually lower in quality and lower in price---the low end Henckles and Wustof series---have stub tangs which only have a short piece of metal extending from the blade into the handle. The steel which is used to make these lighter knives are usually of a lower quality as well. Japanese knives are generally lighter so this rule doesn't always apply.

 

[Bigjim68]

In lieu of a block set of knives, I agree witlh those who would invest their money in a very few essential knives. My choices would be a chef's knive in a length that feel best to you. A petty, small utility, or paring knife for paring, and a boning style knife. It would be just as important to have high quality tools for maintenance, i.e. good quality stones and a good steel. If I did not know what I wanted, and needed something now, I would probably invest in wood handled Forschners, these three knives would cost way less than $75, try SMKW. This would give you time to sort out what works for you. This may be the Forschners. Try the Japanese knives. They represent a different philosophy than european style knives. Forget the steak knives. To me they are cutlery, not kitchen knives, and are used to fill out the block. I bought my steak knives at a kitchen discount store for 20 bucks, and they will be thrown away when they no longer will serve the purpose. Lastly, a way to store them is a must. Unless they are put properly away, they are not going to serve you well. If you have a place to put it where it will not be a danger in the kitchen, a magnetic strip works well. If someone ever hand me a small fortune to redo my kitchen, I will go with Alton Brown's large cutting surface with slots to hold the knives.