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Old 01-29-2008, 01:08 PM   #11
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I agree its odd that they dont mention what steel they areusing... i might drop them an e-mail and try to find out......
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:30 AM   #12
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Yes and no. Some steel like "high carbon stainless" (whatever that is because they don't tell you that it's probably ordinary 440A) are not capable of performing at that hardness. They need to to be more in the range of 56 HRc. Good knife blade steels tend to have much smaller carbides and will not crumble under hard use. There is a tradeoff in that no matter how much I love Hitachi white and blue steels capable of holding an edge many times longer than a typical Solingen forged steel, If I misuse the edge, it will chip. There is a small learning curve.
I didn't think 440A could even get that hard. I thought 440C's maximum hardness was 59HRC and 440A and B tend to be softer.

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Oooops! Yes, I meant to say "Japanese." Sometimes my fingers get ahead of my brain!
Don't feel bad. I make that same mistake all the mistake!
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:39 AM   #13
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I didn't think 440A could even get that hard. I thought 440C's maximum hardness was 59HRC and 440A and B tend to be softer.
Yes, you are correct. Not only they are not made very hard, they also are incapable of taking less than about 15 degrees per side. I've done quite a few at this angle for friends and they are perfectly happy with "the sharpest knife they've ever owned". My reference was more to German and American made knives where the main concern is keeping the knife looking good no matter how much abuse they take, thus the very high chromium content of 440A. The manufacturers know full well that their products are going to be left wet and unwashed or put in the automatic dishwasher or dropped in the sink or.... I have no problem with that but those knives do not suit my wants and needs. I do have a 30 year old set of Chicago Cutlery from which I still use the meat cleaver and a 10" heavy duty chef's knife for hard skinned vegetables.
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:42 AM   #14
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I didn't think 440A could even get that hard.
Come to think of it maybe I misunderstood. Did you mean 440A can't be heat treated to HRc 56?
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Old 01-30-2008, 11:41 AM   #15
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I'm sorry, I was vague there. I meant 440A cannot be hardened up to 62HRC, if I recall correctly.
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Old 01-30-2008, 12:13 PM   #16
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I'm sorry, I was vague there. I meant 440A cannot be hardened up to 62HRC, if I recall correctly.
Even if it could, they wouldn't. I'm pretty sure that even a 50 degree included angle edge would crumble at that hardness. It's designed much more to be stainless than to cut.
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:52 AM   #17
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Lol, i got a reply saying 'i.o shen knives are made from 62oC hardened japanese steel. I hope this answers your question'

Not very helpful, so ive e-mailed back again!

It does seem perhaps they are holding out on exact details, but i stand by my original statement - this really is a fantastic knife having used it for a fair bit now... i await their reply!
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Old 02-01-2008, 12:23 PM   #18
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Lol, i got a reply saying 'i.o shen knives are made from 62oC hardened japanese steel. I hope this answers your question'

Not very helpful, so ive e-mailed back again!

It does seem perhaps they are holding out on exact details, but i stand by my original statement - this really is a fantastic knife having used it for a fair bit now... i await their reply!
Chef William, I'm glad to hear that. Hopefully they can answer your question with the exact steel. I have a couple inexpensive knives made from Hitachi white steel so I guess it can be done. And I'm glad you like that knife. It is very important that the user be pleased. Please check back when/if you get a more specific answer to your email. Regards.....
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Old 02-02-2008, 05:12 AM   #19
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White and Blue steels are both very good. The core of my Tosagata santoku is Blue steel. It gets and stays krazy keen, but it needs to be oiled before storage.
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Old 02-02-2008, 09:02 AM   #20
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White and Blue steels are both very good. The core of my Tosagata santoku is Blue steel. It gets and stays krazy keen, but it needs to be oiled before storage.
Me too. Not that they need protection other than washing and drying when in daily use, but when being stored they need something to prevent rust. I go a teeny bit further than just oiling. I melt bees wax into mineral oil (it stays in solution) and coat the non-stainless areas. This is the same formula I use monthly on my walnut cutting board.
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