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Old 08-06-2008, 03:21 PM   #11
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I use a Spyderco fine (white) profiler to sharpen our Shun 5.5" santoku only when steeling on a smooth steel (as described by Adillo303, above) doesn't bring the edge back. Sliced tomatoes with the santoku this morning for BLTs. The tomato slices were no more than 1/8" thick.
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Old 08-06-2008, 06:14 PM   #12
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GB, don't fall into the trap that "I only need one more piece of equipment and then I will be a samurai."

As I tell all aspiring sharpeners, get one book on sharpening and some serious articles on metallurgy and HT.

Sooner or later someone is going to ask just who the heck I am to dispense advice, and I'm going to have to produce a knife and a guy they trust.

If this knife is a favorite, write me pm.

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Old 08-06-2008, 06:28 PM   #13
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I use a Lansky Crock Stick sharpener (4 rod version). I just sharpened my Wustoff Santoku the other night. I did about 15-20 passes on the medium and then about the same on the fine. I tested it by slicing through some paper and it went through like butter. The next time I used the knife was on some tomatoes from my garden. It would not cut through the skin except at the very back (heel?) of the knife. Once the skin was pierces it cut great though. Any ideas why this is happening and what I can do (until I talk the wife into letting me buy the Edge Pro Apex system)?
You need to continue sharpening until you raise a burr (wire edge). Until you get a burr, the bevels are not meeting. Then remove the burr and proceed to the next finer medium.

A comment: You don't need a serrated blade to cut tomatoes. My knives will practically fall through them under their own weight.
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Old 08-06-2008, 07:46 PM   #14
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Buzz, how do I know when I have raised the burr? Is it just a matter of feeling it?
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Old 08-06-2008, 11:17 PM   #15
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Buzz, how do I know when I have raised the burr? Is it just a matter of feeling it?
Yes, you will feel it. Instead of alternating sides on the Lansky, sharpen one side of the knife eight or ten strokes, then the other side. Continue to do so until you raise a burr. I've never used a Lansky, but my guess, because of the very small amount of abrasive touching the blade at any given time, the sharpening time will be lengthy. It will go much faster using one inch wide stones like on the EdgePro or three inch wide stones on eight inch free handers.

Removing the burr can in itself be problematic using some steels. There are several methods.
1. continue to sharpen using finer and finer grits making the burr smaller and smaller
2. run the edges lightly through some wood or rubber
3. my new preferred technique - use Hand American hard felt and strop the burr off. I've had great success with the felt.
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Old 08-07-2008, 08:24 AM   #16
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Thanks Buzz.
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:24 AM   #17
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GB - there is an excellent tutorial that gives all the required information. It's written by Chad Ward, author of An Edge In The Kitchen.
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Old 08-07-2008, 10:49 AM   #18
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Thanks Buzz. That will be really helpful. I will read through it tonight.
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