Recipe Research and Development

[AllenOK]

So, a few days ago, my Exec. Chef is discussing with me what he wants to run for the specials this week, and that he wants to start developing a recipe for Crab Cakes WITH NO BINDING ingredients, if such a thing is possible. He gives me a few pointers, and tells me to play around with the concept.

Also, he mentioned that we aren't going to be buying the boxed Uncle Ben's Long Grain & Wild rice mix, but making it FROM SCRATCH. We have both kinds of rice, just need the seasonings.

Well, I got to playing around with crab cakes the past couple of days, since they're on the special menu right now. Now, the recipe I'm using has panko bread crumbs and egg for a binder. However, there's just as much crab as binder. They taste great.

Well, I took some of the lump crabmeat, sauteed some onions, added some seasoning, and VERY GENTLY mixed those together by hand. I shaped them up into patties, and froze them. That was yesterday.

Today, I did the same thing, but added a little egg white. That mix was shaped into patties and frozen.

The first mix, without any binding ingredients at all, was floured, egg-washed, and dredged in panko. I seared it off in a little clarified butter on one side, flipped, and into a 500 degree F oven for 6 minutes. Once cooked, I let the cakes rest a minute or two before we taste-tested them.

The second batch, with egg white, was also cooked in the same fashion.

RESULTS: Both types actually held together. I was expecting the one with egg white to hold together, but the first, without any binding, surprised me. The texture was very good, with the second version being a little tighter, due to the egg white. The Food & Beverage manager, GM, and my Sous Chef all tried them, and liked them.

I'll have to do a third run, probably with both kinds, to show the Chef.

This is all in preparation for a major function next weekend (the club I work for is celebrating it's 100th b-day).

I did a little looking around on the internet, and found a copycat recipe for Uncle Ben's. Since it was dead-slow, and I really don't like going to the boss without testing a recipe first, I did a trail-run on the recipe, verbatim from the website, with one minor change. The "original" recipe calls for 1 T chicken bouillon powder. We actually do have some, but it tastes like complete junk. I can't stand using that (one of these days, I may chuck it in the trash, if I can get away with it). I substituted some chicken base instead of the bouillon powder.

Results: Pretty darn close. The "original" recipe also called for 1 teaspoon of turmeric powder, which I knew was going to be to much, and it was. 1/8 - 1/4 teaspoon would probably be plenty. I'll have the Chef taste the stuff I made, probably tomorrow.

Whenever I'm doing a project like this, I always keep a couple copies of the recipe I doing, the original, and my "working" version, which usually gets updated each time. Sometimes, I've even been known to keep a log of what changes I've made each time, and the results.

Anybody else got any interesting stories about R&D for recipes?

 

[Michael in FtW]

When I monkey around with a TNT recipe I always keep notes on my changes - complete with commentary on what worked and what didn't, and why.

 

[Fisher's Mom]

I applaud anyone who can taste a food with more than 2 ingredients and figure out not only what the ingredients are but work out the right amounts! It must come from years of cooking and tasting (along with magical powers). I've been trying to figure out and copy the ingredients in the Near East Original Rice Pilaf spice packet. I know it has tumeric, or at least I think so. But as far as anything else, I'm clueless.

 

[AllenOK]

I applaud anyone who can taste a food with more than 2 ingredients and figure out not only what the ingredients are but work out the right amounts! It must come from years of cooking and tasting (along with magical powers).

Years, yes. Magical powers, no. Heck, I've been playing around formulating and using my own spice mixes for over 10 years, ever since I was in college.

I've been trying to figure out and copy the ingredients in the Near East Original Rice Pilaf spice packet. I know it has tumeric, or at least I think so. But as far as anything else, I'm clueless.

The package should list the ingredients on the back. Unless they give a generic "spices" as one of the ingredients, then there's probably a proprietary formulation in there. You can run imperical experiements trying to derive the ratios, but it could take a long, long, time to figure it out. Some spices/herbs don't really give much in the way of flavor, and are there more for color, like turmeric and parsley. Other herbs/spices are rather potent, and used sparingly.

I've never tried that particular brand. I usually make my own pilaf from scratch. Is it readily available?

 

[AllenOK]

I just pulled my one box of Uncle Ben's out of the cupboard. I looked at the ingredients, and the vegetables are listed as: Onion, spinach, Garlic, Celery, Tomato, Carrot. The recipe I have only uses dried onion, onion powder, and garlic powder. No celery, tomato, or carrot. Hmmmm. I may have to fiddle around with minute amounts of those for the next batch. Or not. The trial run I did smelled like Uncle Ben's, but had way to much turmeric in it. The second batch (I might be making at home soon) will really tell the tale.

 

[Jeekinz]

About the crab, you said "no binders". So I'm guessing that means internal binders like egg?

What about an external "binder"? You could overlap thinly sliced veggies to create a shell, if you will. And the crab would be housed inside. Or what about a thin dough-based shell?

 

[Fisher's Mom]

The package should list the ingredients on the back. Unless they give a generic "spices" as one of the ingredients, then there's probably a proprietary formulation in there. You can run imperical experiements trying to derive the ratios, but it could take a long, long, time to figure it out. Some spices/herbs don't really give much in the way of flavor, and are there more for color, like turmeric and parsley. Other herbs/spices are rather potent, and used sparingly.

I've never tried that particular brand. I usually make my own pilaf from scratch. Is it readily available?

It's available at a lot of Wal-Marts, regular grocery stores and Whole Foods here. The ingredients list is as follows: parboiled long grain rice, orzo (macaroni product made from wheat flour), salt, dried autolyzed yeast extract, dried onions, dried garlic, tumeric spice which imparts color. The rice and the orzo are no problem but where do I start when trying to figure out the amounts for the other stuff? And what the heck is autolyzed yeast extract? Is that a preservative? Any assistance as to where to start would be greatly appreciated.

 

[GotGarlic]

It's available at a lot of Wal-Marts, regular grocery stores and Whole Foods here. The ingredients list is as follows: parboiled long grain rice, orzo (macaroni product made from wheat flour), salt, dried autolyzed yeast extract, dried onions, dried garlic, tumeric spice which imparts color. The rice and the orzo are no problem but where do I start when trying to figure out the amounts for the other stuff? And what the heck is autolyzed yeast extract? Is that a preservative? Any assistance as to where to start would be greatly appreciated.

Autolyzed Yeast Extract
It's basically MSG.

It sounds like there are no "secret" herbs or spices in there. I would start with something like this.

1/2 cup parboiled long grain rice
1/2 cup orzo
1/4 cup diced onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1/4 tsp. MSG (Accent seasoning)

Give it a try and see what happens HTH. And let us know!

 

[Fisher's Mom]

Wow!! Thanks so much, GG! My family loves this stuff and it's $2.29 for a 3 serving package. I'm even willing to do that but since it takes 3 boxes for a meal at my house, I end up running out of it. I will be trying this tonight and I'll definitely let you know how it goes. Thank you, thank you! You're the best.

 

[ironchef]

Allen, I'm confused as to what your chef considers and does not consider to be a binding ingredient. Egg to me is considered a binding ingredient. I might have a couple of ideas for you to play around with, but I want to make sure I'm on the same page before I suggest them.

 

[AllenOK]

Thanks IC. He basically wants just crab, some "seasoning veggies" like onion, bell pepper, and herb/spices. He doesn't mind breading (flour/egg wash/panko) on the OUTSIDE of the crab cake, but basically NOTHING inside the cake as far as egg and a bread product of some kind. I have to mold the cake by hand, freeze it, then bread it and cook it. I've done a couple trial runs, and succeeded. I've also talked to my chef about what I did and the results.

I think he's wanting to do some really upper-crust haute-cuisine stuff, for the club's big century-birthday bash next week. A crab patty with basically all crab and no fillers might fit the bill.

Next week will tell the tale. I'll post what we did after we do the party.

On the question of "autolized yeast extract", would that be anything remotely similar to vegemite/marmite?

 

[auntdot]

Gosh Allen, am just a home cook but live in crab cake country, NOVA.

And the making of crab cakes here is close to a religion. You can surely make them with no binder and they will hold together and are great. Gotta treat them as gently as you would a new born baby but the meat does hold together.

Have driven many miles to find a great crab cake. There is a place in Baltimore that may come close to the best, but my preference was the cakes we got a few years ago, with my mil, at a hotel in Annapolis MD. Don't know if they are the same today.

Actually, and I am glad this is an anonymous site or I would have to find a wig and maybe some other stuff to disguise myself, but we prefer crab cakes with some stuff in it. Live in a world of crab cake purists who add nada, nothing, zilch to the crab cakes.

If it is just the two of us I will sneak in a bit of mayo, just a tad, some finely diced red and green pepper and a bit of onion. And then some Old Bay.

We like them that way.

Crab cakes, how to do the most wonderful stuff God has given us, is always an enigma.

Just my take on crab.







And done that way they are good, lump crabmeat and nothing but.

 

[Andy M.]

Fisher's Mom:

I use the following recipe to make rice pilaf. It's the way my mom made it and it tastes very much like the Near East even though it does not have the extra ingredients.

Pilaf
1 C Rice, long grain
4 Tb Butter
2 Nests of Angel Hair Pasta
2 C Chicken broth

Thoroughly rinse and drain the rice.

Melt the butter in a 2-quart pan. Crumble the pasta nests into the butter. Brown the pasta in the butter. The butter and the noodles should turn a fairly dark brown (more than golden brown but less than burned). It is the browning of the butter and noodles that really gives the pilaf its flavor.

Add the rice and cook over medium to medium low heat for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Add the broth and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer, and cook, covered, for 25 minutes. Don't open the pan to look or stir.

At the end of the cooking time, turn off the burner, mix the pilaf and let it rest in the pan (covered) for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

 

[waaza]

It's available at a lot of Wal-Marts, regular grocery stores and Whole Foods here. The ingredients list is as follows: parboiled long grain rice, orzo (macaroni product made from wheat flour), salt, dried autolyzed yeast extract, dried onions, dried garlic, tumeric spice which imparts color. The rice and the orzo are no problem but where do I start when trying to figure out the amounts for the other stuff? And what the heck is autolyzed yeast extract? Is that a preservative? Any assistance as to where to start would be greatly appreciated.

I can't understand why you would like this stuff, what's wrong with ordinary rice (without the pasta, orzo) and fresh ingredients, unless you are only looking at the time element. (I'm wondering what '100% natural' really means, is it in the vein as a common cold is 100% natural?)

To produce rice 'similar' to your pilaf, sweat some onions in a little oil (add garlic if you think it necessary), then add the dry rice and stir so as to coat each grain with the oil. Then add boiling stock (vegetable stock would be similar to the autolysed yeast) in an amount the same as the quantity of rice (note 1:1 ratio, not any other that may be suggested). If you want to add turmeric for colour, add it now, peas or mushrooms would also be good. Close the pot with a well fitting lid (plus a double layer of kitchen foil for a better seal) and cook on a low heat (or in a low oven) for twenty minutes. DO NOT LIFT THE LID, the rice absorbs all the liquid, and after the 20 mins, just fork the rice through gently.

This is the basis of all the Middle Eastern pilafs, now you can play with alternatives, by adding spices (to the oil, before the rice) if whole, and fresh herbs just before serving. Fruit and nuts can also be added, as can meat, culminating in the multi layered Indian biryani, surely one of the world's best rice dishes?
HTH
Waaza

 

[kitchenelf]

I can't understand why you would like this stuff, what's wrong with ordinary rice (without the pasta, orzo) and fresh ingredients, unless you are only looking at the time element. (I'm wondering what '100% natural' really means, is it in the vein as a common cold is 100% natural?)

To produce rice 'similar' to your pilaf, sweat some onions in a little oil (add garlic if you think it necessary), then add the dry rice and stir so as to coat each grain with the oil. Then add boiling stock (vegetable stock would be similar to the autolysed yeast) in an amount the same as the quantity of rice (note 1:1 ratio, not any other that may be suggested). If you want to add turmeric for colour, add it now, peas or mushrooms would also be good. Close the pot with a well fitting lid (plus a double layer of kitchen foil for a better seal) and cook on a low heat (or in a low oven) for twenty minutes. DO NOT LIFT THE LID, the rice absorbs all the liquid, and after the 20 mins, just fork the rice through gently.

This is the basis of all the Middle Eastern pilafs, now you can play with alternatives, by adding spices (to the oil, before the rice) if whole, and fresh herbs just before serving. Fruit and nuts can also be added, as can meat, culminating in the multi layered Indian biryani, surely one of the world's best rice dishes?
HTH
Waaza

Well, waaza, I would have to say that the answer to your question could be a number of things. Time constraints I'm sure are up there at the top! If this is what she and her family likes who are we to question that? Count me in for liking it too! Though I very rarely make boxed things Near East Rice Pilaf is fabulous! I don't make boxed things because I have lots of time to cook and enjoy making things from scratch - not for all the other reasons.

 

[ironchef]

Would he be opposed to another type of seafood also being used in the cake? You could make say, a scallop mousse (just eggs, cream, and raw scallops in the robo coupe) and fold that into your crab mixture. Or you could even try making a crab mousse so the whole cake is 100% crab and fold that in. The mousse will hold the crab cake base together so you won't have to freeze it.

 

[waaza]

Well, waaza, I would have to say that the answer to your question could be a number of things. Time constraints I'm sure are up there at the top! If this is what she and her family likes who are we to question that? Count me in for liking it too! Though I very rarely make boxed things Near East Rice Pilaf is fabulous! I don't make boxed things because I have lots of time to cook and enjoy making things from scratch - not for all the other reasons.

who am I to say what people should like, exactly, kitchenelf people can and will eat what ever they like, I just can't imagine anyone liking packaged dry produce over freshly made stuff. But, each to their own, vive la difference.
It was not a critique, just an unimaginable

those who can, do.......

 

[kitchenelf]

waaza - it's amazing how, when you don't make boxed things for a VERY long time and then you end up having "whatever" somewhere. You move the food around in your mouth, try to figure out what that peculiar flavor is, and then you realize it's preservatives THEN, you realize that when you ate this "whatever" years ago you never tasted it. Yes, homemade is sooooooooooo much better. I always make my salad dressings for that very same reason. There's just no comparison.

Happy Cooking!

Sorry, I didn't mean to sound so grumpy in my previous post - just defending one of my peeps

 

[Fisher's Mom]

waaza, you're right about home made being so much better. And maybe with all these awesome recipe suggestions, including yours, I'll be box-free in no time! Yippee!

 

[Marko]

Here's an idea: Make your crab cakes with no binders. Add whatever aromatics you want such as onion, shallot, garlic, scallion, chives; then add garnish or other ingredients such as pepper, celery, ginger...whatever. Now...freeze the cakes for a short while so they hold shape. After they are firm from the freezer...wrap them in one layer of phyllo pastry.

This deviates from the classic "crab cake," but you can make a really nice presentation and add something else into the package to spruce it up further. Say you added spinach and a bit of dill on top of the cake before wrapping in phyllo. You could serve it with a lemon beurre blanc. Or, say you topped the cake off with smoked salmon before wrapping and served it with a tarragon cream sauce. And then, you could add ginger to the crab mix and top it off with chopped scallions mixed with cilantro pesto and serve it with a soya based sauce.

The options are endless.

Marko