Sharpening Wusthof Knives

[Anne]

After many years of cooking with rather ordinary knives, I was able to purchase most of a set of Wusthof knives last year. It was quite a splurge since they're very expensive. I'm wondering whether any of you have Wusthof, and if you do, how do you sharpen them? Do you do it yourself or take them to a professional knife sharpener? I have a steel, and I've always sharpened my knives myself, but since this set was so expensive, I've been thinking about taking them to someone who knows exactly what they're doing. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

[XeniA]

We use Wusthof and we sharpen them at home, with a professional-grade steel.

I say "we" although in truth, it's my husband who does it. I'm not bad at it, but he gets a better edge.

We could take them to a professional sharpener, but they use a ginding wheel which in my hubby's opinion it too harsh.

They're lovely knives -- you won't regret the purchase!

 

[Anne]

Thank you, Ayrton. When you say you have a professional steel, what do you mean? We have both a steel like a rod and also a large piece of stone, which my husband has used. I'm not sure that either of them could be called "professional." I think your husband may be right if they grind the knives. I've never asked anyone about this before, so I'm at a loss.

 

[SHAMALICIOUS]

Ive just bought a set of Wusthof knife set (which includes a Steel bar), and while we're on the subject, are Wusthof knifes quite ordinary, or quite good since theyre a bit expensive? We're getting taught how to sharpen our knives on the bar next wednesday or friday! So i could be of help then ! )

 

[GB]

I have Wustoff knives and I sharpen them at home using a system similar to this. It is the Lansky Crock Stick system. I find it does an excellent job and takes all the guesswork out of sharpening.

One thing to keep in mind. Sharpening a knife is much much different from using a steel on a knife. Even though it is sometimes referred to as a sharpening steel, it does not sharpen. A steel only hones the blade. it does nothing to sharpen. You should use the steel every single time you use your knives, but they should only need to be sharpened every 4-12 months 9depending on use and a few other factors).

 

[Anne]

Shamalicious, the Wusthof knives are excellent knives, some of the best. I have one of those sticks, and that's what I've always used on my other knives, but my question is whether I should use it or ask a professional to. I really do appreciate your offer to show me how to sharpen them. Everyone here is so helpful.

GB, I've never seen those Lansky professional sharpeners before, and they look good. I'm going to think about getting one of those. That may be my answer if I can use it right. Thanks for the link!

 

[XeniA]

Thank you, Ayrton. When you say you have a professional steel, what do you mean? We have both a steel like a rod and also a large piece of stone, which my husband has used. I'm not sure that either of them could be called "professional." I think your husband may be right if they grind the knives. I've never asked anyone about this before, so I'm at a loss.

Hi Anne ...

What I mean is a steel specifically manufactured with professional users in mind -- restaurant folks; butchers; those folk. Ours is from the pro line of a French company (Fischer) who our "butcher supply guy" recommended (we go to a guy whose shop is located next to Athens' central meat market to get a variety of sausage-making bits and pieces). We didn't buy the biggest or most expensive, but it's a very nicely made steel and my husband is very pleased with it, feeling it has a superior "bite" to our previous (consumer-grade) steel.

Of course GB is technically right regarding the honing/sharpening business ... but I'm as "lay" as laypersons get, and we use the term "sharpening" for both!

Meanwhile, the bottom line is: sharpen (sorry! hone!) your knives each time before you use them and you'll be one happy knife owner!

 

[Anne]

Hi back, Ayrton ~~ Now, I understand what you mean by professional. Thanks for explaining. Weren't you lucky to have a butcher recommend a sharpener to you? (Notice how I call them "sharpeners," and you'll see how much I know about cutlery!)

I was just as intrigued by the fact that you shop near the meat market in Athens, Greece, as I was in your knife discussion. I can't imagine being in Greece, let alone shopping at one of their markets! A friend of mine spends the summers over there every year and sends me postcards of all sorts of things, including the beautiful architecture. It looks like an amazing country!

Thanks again for your help, Ayrton.

 

[Andy M.]

I have read that steels are made to specifications for certain knives. i.e. a steel for a Chicago Cutlery knife may not do a good job on a Wusthof or Henckels knife (and vice versa) because of the differences in the steels used in the various knife blades.

 

[Robo410]

a diamond steel will keep knives sharp between more thorough sharpenings. THe Lansky system is excellent. THere are several other diamond stone sharpeners that will keep your blades in good shape.

 

[college_cook]

a diamond steel will keep knives sharp between more thorough sharpenings. THe Lansky system is excellent. THere are several other diamond stone sharpeners that will keep your blades in good shape.

I was just about to mention diamond. Wusthof makes a steel encrusted with diamond dust to help you keep an edge longer. I've never used one myself, but I've heard good things about them. They retail for around $40 I think.

 

[Nicholas Mosher]

I use a run-o-the-mill Wusthof steel for re-aligning my edge, and a set of multi-grit wet-stones for sharpening. I use my steel each time I start cooking, and use the wet stones whenever I can tell the edge is dull. If you can't rest the blade on a tomato and then slice it just by drawing the blade back (without any downward pressue) your knife edge is either dull or out of alignment. If a steel doesn't bring it back, I drag the stones out of storage. Sometimes I've gone 8 months without using stones, and sometimes after fall/holiday cooking frenzies I need them after only 3 months.

I use the Cordon Bleu Wusthof series (I have two 8" chef knives and two paring knives). I like half-bolster knives that allow you to use the entire blade. Watch out for the cheapo Wusthof lines that used stamped blades. The Cordon Bleu series also have a thinner blade, which I skimp with by using my chef knives as slicers. The only other knives I own are my Steak Knives and a cheap tag-sale stamped/serrated bread knife. Those three knives do everything I need (8" CK, 3.5" PK, Cheap-O Bread Knife).

Sometimes I consider getting a hefty chinese cleaver, but just make do with my chef knives (they really are all purpose).

- Oh, I do cheat with my mandoline on some dishes...

 

[AllenOK]

I have one Wustaff, a boning knife.

I got the brunt of my knife-sharpening skills when I was in the Boy Scouts, and a nice finishing education in knife sharpening when I was in college for Culinary Arts.

I use a triple-stone system for ALL my blades, professional, home, and pocket knife. The stones that I use for my work knives are ones provided at my job, and are professional-quality. The stones for my home are a kit I bought at Wal-Mart for about $20US many years ago. It has a rough-grit aluminum-oxide stone, and two "Arkansas" whetstones (natural stone), of a medium- and fine-grade. I can and do regularly put a razor edge on my knives, and maintain that edge with a commercial steel, both at home and at work. Whenever I notice that the knife is getting dull, I'll pull the stones out and sharpen them. For my work knives, this is usually about every 6 months, but for my home knives, once a year, or maybe every couple of years, as I don't cook that much at home these days.

 

[Anne]

Thank you

All these ideas! Even though you each offer slightly different solutions, they're a HUGE help to me. To answer a question, my Wusthofs are their top-of-the-line, whatever that is -- Cordon Bleu? In any case, I think I won't take them to a professional to be sharpened. I'll either invest in a Lansky sharpener like GB has, or try to emulate what Allen does with his knives. You people really take your knives seriously, and that's what I was looking for. Thanks to all of you for taking the time to give me advice. I really appreciate it!

 

[Andy M.]

Lansky systems offer several options. Check their site for details.

Also, there are several other companies that offer excellent products.

 

[Anne]

Thanks for the link, Andy. I'll check it out.

 

[beerco]

Hi all,

Regarding Steels - As I understand it, there are two types of steel - pro steels which are perfectly smooth and steels for the rest of us which have a texture. A true steel is not honing or sharpening or anything, it's simply straightening the "bent" micro edge of the blade.

The steels we use are actually doing a little bit of sharpening (or honing, technically the same thing). You can tell because when you wipe your steel or knife you can see the dust from the process.

I personally use a coarse F. Dick steel which does a good job of maintaining and edge. I also have a fine but it's harder to use for me. I use it on my F. Dick knives and my Wusthoff.

When the steel isn't enough, I used to resort to the Lansky, but being kind of lazy, I now use a 1.5" belt sander with a dull (used that is) 100 to 120grit belt. I then lightly polish the edge with a strop & compound just to get the burr off. using this method I can get the knife tomato sharp in about 1 minute. You obviously have to be careful not to get too aggressive, but it's much easier to handle and far less error prone than using a grinder.

A final note regarding sharpness - I also woodwork and polish my chisels and plane irons to the point where their sharpness embarrasses razor blades and surgical instruments. I've tried this with my stainless knives and have found that while this edge is very sharp, it doesn't last long. Using the 100grit belt sander a strop and the steel to maintain, I get an edge that lasts a while. I've also found that using more light strokes works better than few hard strokes on the steel.

 

[Anne]

Beerco, thank you for your reply. Your knives must be the sharpest in Minnesota! I think it's terrific that you care for them so well. I have to say, though, that I don't have access to all that equipment you have in your workshop, so I'm more limited in the way I can sharpen mine (unless I take up woodworking, that is. ) I have to say, I wish you lived closer to DH and me, though, because I'd love to watch you hone those knives to better-than-razor-sharp.

 

[beerco]

I have to say, I wish you lived closer to DH and me, though, because I'd love to watch you hone those knives to better-than-razor-sharp.

Truth be told I can't get a knife to better than razor sharp, it's too hard for me to hold the blade at a consistent angle. Plane irons and chisels are easier.

If you don't have a belt sander or feel like buying one just for knives, I highly recommend the lansky system. It takes longer but is way more foolproof as well (you could easily wreck a good knife on a belt sander).

p.s. MI is Meechigan, MN is Minnesota eh?

Edit (added a few hours later):

I think it's worth noting that a polished razor edge is not necessarilly the best edge to have on cooking knives.

Consider cutting tomatoes. We all know that even a dull serrated knife will go through a tomato or pepper skin with ease. A razor sharp knife will also go through the skin the first couple of strokes but a few trips against the cutting board and it starts to get more difficult.

The most versitile edge I've found for the kitchen is the one that's made with the belt sander with a relatively coarse grit (120) and maintained with the steel not because It makes it razor sharp, but because it makes it pretty sharp with a micro serrated edge. Maintaining with a coarse consumer steel (like the F. Dick and clones) keeps the micro serrations going for a longer lasting edge. And although it may have come accross otherwise in my first post, I prefer cooking and cutting (wood or food) than sharpening.

 

[AllenOK]

I forgot to mention in my original post, that in the past 20 years that I've been sharpening knives by hand, I've learned to maintain a constant 20 degree angle while the blade is on the stone. This takes lots and lots of practice.

I have two steels, both are F. Dick steels (most of my work knives are F. Dick knives as well). My first steel came with my original set of knives when I started college for Culinary Arts. It's a rather thin, cheaply-produced steel, but good for starting out. I would have to say it's got a "coarse" grain to it. The steel I use at work is also an F. Dick, but larger, thicker, and has a finer grain to the steel.

You can get diamond-encrusted steels, and they do a nice job of maintaining the micro-serrations on the blade that keep it sharp.

You can also get "smooth", polished steels. I have no real idea what the polished ones do.