Global 8 inch or 10 inch Chef's Knife

[Jehuisthere]

Hi, I'm new to the forums and am excited to hear some of your expertise.

I am a 23 year old male who absolutely loves cooking.

I am looking to invest in a top quality chef's knife. From reading around I gather that Global seems to be the best option.

My only question is it better to go with an 8 inch or a 10 inch, what are the pros and cons of both.

Also, while the price of the Global knife does not necessarily bother me, I am curious as to what the added benefit of going with a Global chef's knife vs say a Forschner Fibrox for example which I understand is a good value for money.

Any help would be most appreciated.

 

[jennyema]

WELCOME!

Don't ever buy a knife -- especially a pricey one -- without trying it first. Global makes a great product but some people find them uncomfortable to hold.

There are loads of good knives out there. I'd suggest examining, holding and trying more than a few before you buy.

8 or 10 is purely a matter of individual preference. There's no right answer.

If you use our search feature you can look at dozens of threads discussing knives.

 

[DrThunder88]

How big is your best cutting board? Alton Brown has a good rule of thumb: Measure your favorite board diagonally and subtract four inches (I'd say subtract two, but I'm not Alton Brown). The difference is your knife's ideal overall length. If you don't have room on your counter top for a board with a 16-inch diagonal, you probably don't need more than an 8-inch knife.

Welcome aboard!

 

[Rob Babcock]

Years ago when I started reading about Japanese knives I decided I wanted a Global- then I actually handled one. Can't say as I care for them now. The handles are slick and not all that comfortable, and they lack the "warmth" in the hand of a wood or micarta handle. I also am not crazy about the geometry. They're quality knives but I second the notion of at least handling one before you buy.

Size is a subjective thing. Most Japanese knives are sized metric; they go from 210mm (roughly 8 & 1/4 inches) to 240mm (just shy of 9 & 1/2 inches). Japanese knives that are made for the Western market, such as Shun and Global, generally size them by inches, normally stepping from 8 inches up to 10. Personally I like the feel of the 240mm a bit better than the slightly longer 10"-er but it's subjective. I've read about forumulas based on height to arrive at the optimal length but I don't find that useful. Go with what feels best for you. Many people will find an 8" more "nimble" and easy to use, and it can be wielded in less space than a 10". But the 10" size makes bulk prep faster, especially mincing large amounts of herbs, etc. An 8" is also a bit short for carving turkeys and stuff like that.

If I could only have one chef knife and it had to be either 8 inches or ten inches, I'd go with the ten. But that's just me.

FWIW, I'd suggest you try a Tojiro. I think they're better knives and they're a lot cheaper. Obviously you wouldn't be able to handle one before you buy but they're much more conventionally handled; they feel like your average German but they cut a lot better. For some reason Korin only seems to list the 10.5" right now but they usually have all the sizes. And there are some other vendors that also carry them, too.

 

[Rob Babcock]

Some knives for the same price as the 10" Global or less that I'd rather have or at least would consider:


10" Shun Classic:

9.5" MAC Professional- Mighty Chef Knife

240mm Tojiro DP

Hiromoto Tenmi-Jyuraku Gingami No.3 Series 240mm Gyuto

Kumagoro Suminagashi, San Mai Damascus Chef Knife 240mm

 

[Rob Babcock]

Also, while the price of the Global knife does not necessarily bother me, I am curious as to what the added benefit of going with a Global chef's knife vs say a Forschner Fibrox for example which I understand is a good value for money.

Any help would be most appreciated.

I missed this part until I reread it. While price is no guarantee of quality, you generally will get a better knife in the higher price range (subject of course to the law of diminishing returns). More expensive knives will generally deliver a higher level of fit and finish as well as better steel and heat treating. More expensive European knives from Messermeister, Henckels and Wusthof will generally be forged compared to the stamped knives of the Fibrox line.

When you choose a Japanese knife you'll not only get generally better steel (harder at any rate, and often much more wear resistant, too) but also better geometry. A Hattori, Shun or Yoshikane will wear an edge bevelled at about 15-16 degrees per side vs the 22.5 or so that Germans generally have. Japanese knives generally are laminated; a very hard core is bonded to a softer steel outer cladding. This allows the cutting edge to be very hard while the cladding helps protect if from rust and improves flexibility and durability. The hagane (core) will usually be made from V-Gold 10, SKD, SG2 or some other proprietary equivalent. Normally the cutting edge of the knife is hardened to around 60-64 Rockwell C on a Japanese knife vs 55-58 for most European blades. This, combined with finer carbides, will allow the knife to be sharpened to a more acute angle and maintain the edge longer (note: this is a whopper of a simplification!).

That said, forged knives aren't always superior. Most japanese knives, even some very expensive ones, are stamped. I'd agree that the Forshner Fibrox knives are a great deal, fantastic for the money. I still keep a couple in my work roll.

I'm a big fan of Japanese knives, and they make up the bulk of my collection. But that's just a preference; there are tradeoffs. The hard the steels have some advantages, but in general terms they're also a bit more "brittle" than a softer German. If I need to split a lobster I usually grab my Wusthof, not my Hattori. Of course, whacking coconuts and splitting chicken bones is really a job for a cleaver (or axe!) but a thicker, softer, and sturdier German will come thru the ordeal better than my Shuns. Lastly, sharpening Japanese knives is a bit more complicated, or at least requires a different approach.

 

[RobsanX]

I've never used a 10" chef's knife, but I have an 8" Henckels and I love it. For home cooking I can't see the need for anything bigger.

 

[jpaulg]

The 10" knife makes lighter work of big jobs. The 8" knife is smaller and easier to use. For a home chef the 8" knife is generally the better buy, but if you're over 6' tall the 10" might be a better fit.

In terms of blade geometry/steel you three main traditional styles, German, French and Japanese. With German blades compromises have been made for safety, ease of handling and blade maintenance. French and Japanese blades are optimised in different ways, with Japanese blades optimised for precision cuts.

Then you also have the fact that traditional designs are being globalised so that country of origin is counting for less and less. Some German examples
The Nesmuk Janus:

The Solicut Absolute ML Santoku

All of which have blade geometry and steel qualities that include a lot of 'Japanese' elements.
Of ourse there are makers like Robert Herder using pre stainless steel technology and producing very thin carbon steel blades.

 

[Rob Babcock]

Apropos of nothing I'll never buy another knife with a full bolster (ie the old school Sabatier, Wusthof, etc).

 

[buzzard767]

Thin is good. However, as Tweety would say, "I tawt I taw a finger guard." You couldn't give me one of those things.

Thanks for the push, Rob. I have a boat load of T-I Sabatiers, some WWII era, and I think I'm going to ebay them all this year. They just aren't fun anymore, even with 10* edges.

 

[Rob Babcock]

Geez, I don't want that on my head! You should keep one or two old ones just for the history of them, for display if for no other reason. But I just don't like bolsters. They make sharpening a pain and they interfere with the cut, especially for large items like cakes.

 

[Robo410]

You asked about size not brand. 8" is a standard but many chefs use a 10". Try both sizes (check out a dept store or housewares/kitchen store with samples) to see which feels better for you. What I use is of no importance.

 

[jpaulg]

Thin is good. However, as Tweety would say, "I tawt I taw a finger guard." You couldn't give me one of those things.

Thanks for the push, Rob. I have a boat load of T-I Sabatiers, some WWII era, and I think I'm going to ebay them all this year. They just aren't fun anymore, even with 10* edges.

Let me know when you're offloading. Money's tight with me at the moment but I'm definitely interested.

 

[buzzard767]

Let me know when you're offloading. Money's tight with me at the moment but I'm definitely interested.

I don't know when I'm going to sell them considering the state of the economy. I might put a couple of ebay feelers out there with new nogent handled Sabs manufactured out of carbon steel forged prior to WWII. They aren't quite right. I can straighten the blades no problem but the blades aren't quite aligned with the handles and I hate those funky hit and miss fitting bolster/ferrule thingies. They are easy to sharpen though. They are probably around Rockwell 55-56 like most French forgings and they take a wicked edge. I have forced patina on some of the new ones but the patina on the antiques is a natural thing of beauty.

These are WWII era with 99% blades. Fairly rare considering how old they are. Off the top of my head, 6", 9" and about 11". Notice the patina stains on the 9". I stored it in a magnetic blade protector for several months and when I removed it I darn near went into a state of shock. It was dry when I put it in but there must have been something waiting for the steel. **** that's irritating.

 

[jpaulg]

Buzzard,

I'm interested in getting an 11"+ blade. I've just forcibly changed jobs (Merry Christmas - you're sacked) which has put a dent in the old piggybank.

My wish list is CS blade, full bolster and wooden handle. Whilst the antique thing would be nice, it isn't high on my list as it's for a working knife.

 

[buzzard767]

Buzzard,

I'm interested in getting an 11"+ blade. I've just forcibly changed jobs (Merry Christmas - you're sacked) which has put a dent in the old piggybank.

My wish list is CS blade, full bolster and wooden handle. Whilst the antique thing would be nice, it isn't high on my list as it's for a working knife.

Good timing. Look at this. It's an 11" Thiers-Issard Four Star Elephant Sabatier, carbon steel, wood handle, full bolster. It has never been used. In fact, it couldn't be used as it has never been sharpened. Somehow it slipped through the cracks in Thiers, France and ended up in my hands. It's as dull as a hammer, no bevels have ever been cut. Rare rare rare.

 

[jpaulg]

Sweet as!

 

[Lewi]

Global 8 or 10 inch knives are both great. The factory edge sucks though. You definately have to whip out the stones and sharpen it. It depends on what you are going to use the knife to cut. If you are going to doing alot of slicing then I would recommend a 10 incher. Global knives are lightweight so a bigger knife wouldn't be overwhelming as compare to a german knife like Wusthof. This is because the Wusthof is so much heavier that doing certain jobs will feel uncomfortable.

 

[dragnlaw]

My goodness! don't be so impatient! LOL people need time to think and this is a very old thread. Did you read thru some of the other threads on knives? Did you pick up anything from them?
Knives are a whole other world out there.

The answers you may get will be vastly different for each response. As for some, they are a very personal thing. Perhaps you should go to an outlet or kitchen supply store and see what they have.

No matter what anyone says, you will have to go and see for yourself what fits your hand, weight, etc.

Good Luck and congrats on getting that Christmas present to enable your purchase!

 

[taxlady]

What is "PFD"?