Curious, Alan, how you are holding your knife? That could be affecting your perception of sharpness.
Not sure what you mean...I hold it with my right hand and put my index finger over the top of the blade.
Curious, Alan, how you are holding your knife? That could be affecting your perception of sharpness.
That is true. However, inattention or improper cutting technique will land you in trouble with a sharp blade. Redeeming factors are that the cutting won't hurt much if you feel it at all because it will be cleaner and the cut will heal both faster and with less scarring.
Not sure what you mean...I hold it with my right hand and put my index finger over the top of the blade.
Here is a good site to learn everything you ever wanted to know about knife sharpening: Sharpening Made Easy
Even an inexpensive knife can have a reasonable lifespan between sharpenings with proper use of a steel.
A good cutting surface is also important. Wood is still the best surface for edge preservation (end grain in particular), with plastic next (plastics vary... softer is usually better). Glass or stone cutting boards should never be used with a good knife.
I've previously read all of Bottorf's stuff before. While the information is good, remember that it is one man's opinion. If you're tempted to try his paper wheels, be careful and practice with some beaters. It's all too easy to overheat the edge and ruin the temper.
I use a steel that came with a block set 30 years ago to poke holes for planting seeds in the garden. Don't use them for knives if you can avoid it. Use a fine ceramic steel like the Idahone or a HandAmerican Borosilicate steel. I steel "steel" will rip up the edge as can easlily be seen with a loupe. Not good, and diefinitely not sharp.
A Sani-Tuff rubber board is every bit as easy on knives as end grain wood. They're kind of ugly but there's a reason they're found in many commercial kitchens. Poly boards have a place in my home, but only for proteins, and I am very careful to have minimum edge/poly contact. The sharper the knife, the more problems with poly.
You're saying that using a "steel" steel is wrong???? Gee, it seems to have worked for me for a good many years. It also works for a LOT of professionals, including the instructors at the cooking school classes I attended some years ago. They even have a professional sharpener come in to teach proper knife maintenance, and HE used a standard steel.
So I'm justifiably puzzled by your assertions.
when I purchased a 3-piece set of Chicago Cutlery knives, they came with an accompanying steel. The steel is harder than many that I've seen, and is smooth. Instructions stated that when my knives became dull, I could back steel them, then steel forward again and return the knives to a reasonable sharpness. Now those old knives hold an edge very well, but are hard to sharpen. Back-steeling proved to be a quick way to at least partially restore the edge. I've used the technique for years and my knives go through tomatoes, and virtually everything I cut or slice with ease.
On the other hand, I have two crock-sticks (ceramic rods) that are very smooth. After sharpening with my Smith's Arkansas stone, If I then try to finish them with the crock-stick, they actually seem to be less sharp. But if I very lightly steel them, and I mean barely touching the metal, the edge becomes much more keen.
I have heard that finishing a knife edge with a strop that has been rubbed with jeweler's rouge will put a proper convex curve on the edge, making it stronger, less resistant to fold-over, and give the ultimate sharpness. Leather belts suitable for making a strop seem hard to find in my town.
Since all I'm after is a functional knife, and I seem to be able to get that without spending a great deal of time at it, I'm happy with my methods. I'm not, nor will I ever be a professional. I also don't plan to use my knives for shaving... Gillette takes care of that for me.
So here's the thing...I have a cheap set of knives that I sharpen several times a week. I'm obsessive about them being sharp, but others have told me I'm being ridiculous and there's no need for a knife to be sharpened that often.
What I would like to know is what is a reasonable sharpness? Is there some kind of test that's recognized to mean a knife is really, really sharp? For me it's the tomatoes and bell peppers that get to me. If I have to apply pressure and really start sawing, I think the knives aren't sharp enough. Unfortunately, I've never gotten to that point with my knives...so I'm wondering if I just have impossible standards or whether my knives are substandard.
You're saying that using a "steel" steel is wrong???? Gee, it seems to have worked for me for a good many years. It also works for a LOT of professionals, including the instructors at the cooking school classes I attended some years ago. They even have a professional sharpener come in to teach proper knife maintenance, and HE used a standard steel.
So I'm justifiably puzzled by your assertions.
Several years ago I stood through a boring demonstration with the promise of a free knife at the end. This free knife is the sharpest and easiest to use knife among all of my expensive cutlery. The only problem is that it is too small, only three inches. I have tried to find another longer one but they don't seem to make them. The box said: Paring Pro, surgical stainless steel. Has anyone ever heard of these?
Lots of debate on steeling hows and whats - I use a steel at work, because it is fast, durable and handy. I use a steel steel because a ceramic or glass rod wouldn't last half a day before it got slammed into something, knocked in half, ect... I am also in agreement that the steel will always have a place next to the cook's knife - even when there are better quality options available. If I took 60 seconds to setup and use my SpyderCo during service, the chef would stuff it (and the knife) right where . . . . Suffice to say that a steel is the best and only option for most cooks operating in a busy kitchen.