Toaster Ovens, decisions, decisions, decisions

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With the old oven it was a possibility but I found the oven cooled off just too fast. Most proofing is most often about 45 minutes.
I have been given many ideas for solutions and none have been satisfactory. But push come to shove - need for an Oven is more important than a proofing ability. Just thought I would put it out there.
Also now according to measurements, a new oven will have to go under the microwave (it was above the micro before).
So I will have to check the heat rising factor affecting the micro.
If it can go under, is that on a separate shelf? If so, couldn't you put the MW on that shelf and the oven on the shelf above?
 
I'll have to order one soon. I've never owned a Breville anything but have had or still have various appliances of all the rest and always been happy with them, so my choice will be one of them. That being said ...
Last Question: Which brand would you choose?
Breville
Cuisinart
KitchenAid
Toshiba
Oster
 
I have a very old Delonghi (sp?) toaster oven, that has nothing "smart" in its electronics, and the same with that Farberware countertop convection oven (from 1977), so hopefully, they will live even longer than I expected! I have looked at some replacement options, figuring that it would need done, but, KOW, it hasn't happened. I do remember considering Toshiba, for a toaster oven, only because they were cheap, and nothing "smart" in them, which is always what dies. But to replace the larger one, I would look at the size, though in your case, you are using it for both a toaster and oven, which would be difficult to balance the size for. I wouldn't worry about the proofing - with all the bread I make, I don't think about the temperature much - only want the higher temps for certain sourdoughs. Most of the time I rise at room temp, for longer.
 
I have a very old Delonghi (sp?) toaster oven, that has nothing "smart" in its electronics
So do I. You spelled it right. Stirling bought it as a Yule gift for me in 1995. I was very annoyed. It cost over $200. I could get a good quality toaster oven that was safe for cooking meat for $80 at the time. Yeah, back then not all toaster ovens were designed to cook meat. Mine is an "Air Stream". It has convection. It is still going strong. I would recommend this brand, but I don't know if they are still that good quality.
 
I'll have to order one soon. I've never owned a Breville anything but have had or still have various appliances of all the rest and always been happy with them, so my choice will be one of them. That being said ...
Last Question: Which brand would you choose?
Breville
Cuisinart
KitchenAid
Toshiba
Oster

If you do some searching, you will probably find some of them are the same company.

CD
 
pepper, I too think de'Longhi is good quality. Unfortunately I clicked and purchased the Cuisinart about 30 seconds before your post. LOL, but no big deal. I still checked them out and it really would have been a toss up between the two.
 
pepper, I too think de'Longhi is good quality. Unfortunately I clicked and purchased the Cuisinart about 30 seconds before your post. LOL, but no big deal. I still checked them out and it really would have been a toss up between the two.

Well, I just sent you a PM, apparently for nothing. I need more than four hours to be helpful. :ROFLMAO:

CD
 
If you do some searching, you will probably find some of them are the same company.

CD
Probably, I found that with Jenn-Air, Maytag and others are all owned by Whirlpool. I mentioned this on another Trhead somewhere.
All of the Toaster Ovens have rave reviews and all have some terrible reviews as well. Read them all.
I don't like any of the digital factors, too much can go wrong. From a simple loose solder to a comple lemon. It's anybody's guess what you will get. All I can do is be vigilant as soon as it arrives - try all the functions as soo as possible. Then follow the Warrantee instructions to cover your butt.
 
I'm late to the party as well. I am sure your decision was fine. For future reference, I often find side-by-side comparisons helpful. Some websites, such as Best Buy, allow for it. So...jump over to kitchen candy when it arrives so we can hear more about your choice! :heart:
 
I will Kathleen, thanks!
Yeah, I filled 2 pages with little notes comparing physical sizes, wattage, volts, features, accessories, prices and delivery. Not to mention the reviews.
Finally whittled my pros and con weights down. Prices and accessories were the biggest differences in most of them. Guess I shouldn't have been surprised by that but was a bit.
you'll be all hearing from me Saturday or Sunday - I hope not ad nauseum but just enough, eh?
 
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I have a space heater that has two settings. One setting draws 500 watts, and the other draws 1,000 watts. I always run it on 500 watts, which is still a lot. It takes longer to heat a room, but it is half the wattage. Based on some basic art-major calculations, the time versus wattage works in my favor.
If the lower setting takes twice as long you break even.

Watts = volt x amps x power factor. Heaters are resistive loads so the power factor is < 1, but would be the same for both settings.

Watt hours tells you how much energy you consume. If low takes an hour and high 30 minutes you have nominally 1kWH regardless. You just take longer to get warm. It may matter depending in other loads on the circuit.
 
It takes longer to heat a room, but it is half the wattage.
If the lower setting takes twice as long you break even.
If you are heating a cold room, common sense tells me it doesn't work out evenly.
Luke warm air will eventually seep out probably faster than it can be replaced. Unless that room is super insulated and sealed.
My common sense tells me that what would take a half hour at higher setting will probably take a bit more than hour to achieve the same temperature. Exactly how much more - ain't going there maybe only 10 minutes. Only tests will tell and every room would register slightly8 different.
JMHO
 
If you are heating a cold room, common sense tells me it doesn't work out evenly.
Luke warm air will eventually seep out probably faster than it can be replaced. Unless that room is super insulated and sealed.
My common sense tells me that what would take a half hour at higher setting will probably take a bit more than hour to achieve the same temperature. Exactly how much more - ain't going there maybe only 10 minutes. Only tests will tell and every room would register slightly8 different.
JMHO

Too much for my art major in college brain to deal with. All I know for sure is that I get a warm room for my hot shower whenever I want it.

The space heater can't be worse than running both furnaces -- although the upstairs furnace doesn't run a lot. Hot air rises and all that other physics stuff.

At some point, I'm going to need a smaller house. 18 stairs isn't going to be practical forever.

BTW, did I mention I had to run the A/C Sunday night/Monday morning so I could sleep? I'm pretty sure that doesn't happen in Canada... yet. It is @#$@#!!! 82F right now. Winter in Texas. We freeze one day, and melt the next day.

CD
 
If you are heating a cold room, common sense tells me it doesn't work out evenly.
Luke warm air will eventually seep out probably faster than it can be replaced. Unless that room is super insulated and sealed.
My common sense tells me that what would take a half hour at higher setting will probably take a bit more than hour to achieve the same temperature. Exactly how much more - ain't going there maybe only 10 minutes. Only tests will tell and every room would register slightly8 different.
JMHO
Common sense says the laws of thermodynamics don't change. If the low power cannot overcome the the heat losses to the system then it would use more power as it would never be done. If both systems can overcome those losses then they both have to overcome the same energy loss. The high power system would run a shorter period of time to get there, but it still has to fight the loss. The low power system takes longer but gets there with less power.
 
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Ahhh, OK

I know what to do now...
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...

BTW, did I mention I had to run the A/C Sunday night/Monday morning so I could sleep? I'm pretty sure that doesn't happen in Canada... yet. It is @#$@#!!! 82F right now. Winter in Texas. We freeze one day, and melt the next day.

CD
When I moved to Montreal in the mid 1970s, most rented places that included heat in the rent were far too warm in winter. Yes, you read that right. Often it would be 80°F or even a few degrees higher. Had to leave a window partially open. One of the other tenants in the high rise I lived in was also a coworker. She had paid to have air conditioning installed in her apartment. She ran it in winter to get to a comfortable temperature. We had no control on the heat. She had a thermostat on her AC.
 
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