If it can go under, is that on a separate shelf? If so, couldn't you put the MW on that shelf and the oven on the shelf above?
Toaster Ovens, decisions, decisions, decisions
- Thread starter dragnlaw
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
OP
OP
Not a shelf, a table.
Ohhhh, so does that mean the toaster oven is wider than the MW and the balancing would be precarious?
OP
OP
Dead one fit on top just fine, had a smaller footprint than the micro. New one's are bigger.
OP
OP
I'll have to order one soon. I've never owned a Breville anything but have had or still have various appliances of all the rest and always been happy with them, so my choice will be one of them. That being said ...
Last Question: Which brand would you choose?
Breville
Cuisinart
KitchenAid
Toshiba
Oster
Last Question: Which brand would you choose?
Breville
Cuisinart
KitchenAid
Toshiba
Oster
pepperhead212
Master Chef
I have a very old Delonghi (sp?) toaster oven, that has nothing "smart" in its electronics, and the same with that Farberware countertop convection oven (from 1977), so hopefully, they will live even longer than I expected! I have looked at some replacement options, figuring that it would need done, but, KOW, it hasn't happened. I do remember considering Toshiba, for a toaster oven, only because they were cheap, and nothing "smart" in them, which is always what dies. But to replace the larger one, I would look at the size, though in your case, you are using it for both a toaster and oven, which would be difficult to balance the size for. I wouldn't worry about the proofing - with all the bread I make, I don't think about the temperature much - only want the higher temps for certain sourdoughs. Most of the time I rise at room temp, for longer.
So do I. You spelled it right. Stirling bought it as a Yule gift for me in 1995. I was very annoyed. It cost over $200. I could get a good quality toaster oven that was safe for cooking meat for $80 at the time. Yeah, back then not all toaster ovens were designed to cook meat. Mine is an "Air Stream". It has convection. It is still going strong. I would recommend this brand, but I don't know if they are still that good quality.
caseydog
Master Chef
If you do some searching, you will probably find some of them are the same company.
CD
OP
OP
pepper, I too think de'Longhi is good quality. Unfortunately I clicked and purchased the Cuisinart about 30 seconds before your post. LOL, but no big deal. I still checked them out and it really would have been a toss up between the two.
caseydog
Master Chef
Well, I just sent you a PM, apparently for nothing. I need more than four hours to be helpful.
CD
OP
OP
Probably, I found that with Jenn-Air, Maytag and others are all owned by Whirlpool. I mentioned this on another Trhead somewhere.
All of the Toaster Ovens have rave reviews and all have some terrible reviews as well. Read them all.
I don't like any of the digital factors, too much can go wrong. From a simple loose solder to a comple lemon. It's anybody's guess what you will get. All I can do is be vigilant as soon as it arrives - try all the functions as soo as possible. Then follow the Warrantee instructions to cover your butt.
OP
OP
answering the pm now
Kathleen
Cupcake
I'm late to the party as well. I am sure your decision was fine. For future reference, I often find side-by-side comparisons helpful. Some websites, such as Best Buy, allow for it. So...jump over to kitchen candy when it arrives so we can hear more about your choice! 
OP
OP
I will Kathleen, thanks!
Yeah, I filled 2 pages with little notes comparing physical sizes, wattage, volts, features, accessories, prices and delivery. Not to mention the reviews.
Finally whittled my pros and con weights down. Prices and accessories were the biggest differences in most of them. Guess I shouldn't have been surprised by that but was a bit.
you'll be all hearing from me Saturday or Sunday - I hope not ad nauseum but just enough, eh?
Yeah, I filled 2 pages with little notes comparing physical sizes, wattage, volts, features, accessories, prices and delivery. Not to mention the reviews.
Finally whittled my pros and con weights down. Prices and accessories were the biggest differences in most of them. Guess I shouldn't have been surprised by that but was a bit.
you'll be all hearing from me Saturday or Sunday - I hope not ad nauseum but just enough, eh?
If the lower setting takes twice as long you break even.
Watts = volt x amps x power factor. Heaters are resistive loads so the power factor is < 1, but would be the same for both settings.
Watt hours tells you how much energy you consume. If low takes an hour and high 30 minutes you have nominally 1kWH regardless. You just take longer to get warm. It may matter depending in other loads on the circuit.
OP
OP
If you are heating a cold room, common sense tells me it doesn't work out evenly.
Luke warm air will eventually seep out probably faster than it can be replaced. Unless that room is super insulated and sealed.
My common sense tells me that what would take a half hour at higher setting will probably take a bit more than hour to achieve the same temperature. Exactly how much more - ain't going there maybe only 10 minutes. Only tests will tell and every room would register slightly8 different.
JMHO
caseydog
Master Chef
Too much for my art major in college brain to deal with. All I know for sure is that I get a warm room for my hot shower whenever I want it.
The space heater can't be worse than running both furnaces -- although the upstairs furnace doesn't run a lot. Hot air rises and all that other physics stuff.
At some point, I'm going to need a smaller house. 18 stairs isn't going to be practical forever.
BTW, did I mention I had to run the A/C Sunday night/Monday morning so I could sleep? I'm pretty sure that doesn't happen in Canada... yet. It is @#$@#!!! 82F right now. Winter in Texas. We freeze one day, and melt the next day.
CD
Common sense says the laws of thermodynamics don't change. If the low power cannot overcome the the heat losses to the system then it would use more power as it would never be done. If both systems can overcome those losses then they both have to overcome the same energy loss. The high power system would run a shorter period of time to get there, but it still has to fight the loss. The low power system takes longer but gets there with less power.
OP
OP
I know what to do now...
When I moved to Montreal in the mid 1970s, most rented places that included heat in the rent were far too warm in winter. Yes, you read that right. Often it would be 80°F or even a few degrees higher. Had to leave a window partially open. One of the other tenants in the high rise I lived in was also a coworker. She had paid to have air conditioning installed in her apartment. She ran it in winter to get to a comfortable temperature. We had no control on the heat. She had a thermostat on her AC.
