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Old 12-16-2010, 10:30 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by jpaulg View Post
Having said that CS is a PITA to keep rust free and the patina makes the knives look shopworn.
I don't mind the look of patina but of course mine are clad so I only get it on the edge.

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Originally Posted by jpaulg View Post
Agree totally about finger guard making sharpening more difficult but it isn't too much work to grind it off. If you do that make sure you round off the back, I've shed blood on 90 degree corners with CS knives - I cut through my knife callous when I got my first CS Sab simply from using a pinch grip.
It's not difficult to reduce the bolster but it's harder to do so in a way that looks clean and natural. There's a bit of an art to grind it down while maintaining a factory-ish appearance.
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:54 PM   #72
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I don't mind the look of patina but of course mine are clad so I only get it on the edge.



It's not difficult to reduce the bolster but it's harder to do so in a way that looks clean and natural. There's a bit of an art to grind it down while maintaining a factory-ish appearance.
The cosmetics can be important.
Blue and black steels get nice grey patina but white and yellow steels will take an ugly red/brown patina. Either way they don't look as clean as stainless and I've had fights with some know nothings who though my knives were unhygienic because of the patina.

I've seen some people who have reduced the fingerguard to about half the width of the blade and tapered the remaining part and thought that its a good look. Might pull out the Dremel and do that to my Sab one day.
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