Persian Food

[Nicholas Mosher]

Every once in a while I enjoy delving into cookbooks of foreign cuisines to develop a small set of dishes that make "get togethers" interesting. I find that I learn quite a bit reading through cookbooks - especially those that attempt to explain why a cuisine has developed to what it is today through the geography of a region and culture of the people who live there.

So after eating at a bunch of Persian-owned persian restaurants that have been popping up everywhere in my area and buying a few cookbooks, I'm going to try and develop my hand at Persian food. I'm going to make a conscious effort at keeping the food from simply becoming an extension of stereotypical middle-eastern or Greek street food. I found "New Food of Life" by Najmieh Batmanglij to be an excellent resource, and read every page.

So tonight and tomorrow I will be attempting slightly modified versions of...

Homemade Nan-e Barbari
Fresh Panir
Shirazi Salad
Javaher Polow
Veggie Kabobs
Jujeh Kabobs
Kabob-e Kubideh w/Maast-O Khiar

and Walnut Cookies w/Oranges in Syrup

I purchased the sword-like skewers with flat-sides for the Kubideh, and got my order of amazing spices in from an Iranian store.

Pictures and text to come (hopefully by the end of the week).

Any tips out there from veterans of this cuisine?

EDIT: Oh, and I'm also developing a cocktail to match. One thing I learned through reading is that although Muslim culture forbids alcohol, certain minority sub-cultures (that are actually ancient Persian) are allowed to produce wine for personal use. Arak, an anise liqueur is also widely "abused"...

 

[flukx]

Sounds great!

I havent tried to make any of the above, but did make Khoresht Fesenjan once (chicken, walnut, pomegranite stew type thing) and it turned out fantastic - really tasty and highly recommendable. Though I completely messed up the Persian rice (rice with a golden crust on top - the recipe I found included saffran as well). If you ever try to make the rice, my best tip would be to use a non-stick pan for the browning part. I didnt and, well, you can imagine what happened. Big mess.

Good luck and looking forward to the pictures!

 

[Mimizkitchen]

Wow that sounds great, although i've never had persian food, I can't wait to hear your take on these recipes and to see the pictures... Have Fun!!!

 

[Nicholas Mosher]

Quick image of tonight's Nan-e Barbari, Kabab-e Kubideh, and Maast-o Khiar.
My take on it tomorrow.

 

[Mimizkitchen]

Quick image of tonight's Nan-e Barbari, Kabab-e Kubideh, and Maast-o Khiar.
My take on it tomorrow.

HOLY CRAPOLY looks amazing Nick, I want this recipe!!!!

 

[Andy M.]

Hi Nick, looks really good!

For those of us not well versed in Persian food, please provide some info on this dish.

 

[kadesma]

You picture make my mouth water. I've had naan and love it will look into making my own. Thanks for sharing
kades

 

[Nicholas Mosher]

Not totally traditional in it's arrangement, but I prefer Barbari bread over Lavash for it's juice-absorbing abilities (and texture!). Kabab-e Kubideh is a skewer of seasoned ground beef and lamb that is quickly cooked over hot coals. It is served on flat bread with grilled tomatoes and a Tzatziki-like sauce called Maast-O Khiar (literally yogurt and cucumbers). At restaurants it's often served with rice, but I've saved that dish for tomorrow (and figured correctly that the bread would be more than enough).

I started with the Maast, as it requires some time in the fridge to mature and develop. Deviating from my goal to avoid stereotypes, I went with a thick greek yogurt as a base (what can I say, I prefer it!). Unlike most Tzatzikis I've had, the Maast includes Dill (fresh herbs are used liberally in Persian cuisine it seems). I went easier on the herbs than most recipes, as I find they can become overpowering.

12-oz. Greek Yogurt
1 Large Pickling Cucumber - Shredded & Dewatered
1-t Garlic Paste (Use fresh cloves, salt, and the side of a good knife)
1-t Minced Fresh Mint
1-t Minced Fresh Dill
1/2-t Kosher Salt
1/2-t Freshly Ground Black Pepper

Use a box grater for the (unpeeled) cucumber, and then squeeze out as much water from the product by placing it in a flour-sack towel and twisting. Combine all the ingredients well and refrigerate for a minimum of 3 hours (overnight is best).

The bread recipe I settled on is a cross between Indian Naan and a French Baguette. Traditionally, Nan-e Barbari is supposed to be likened to a wide/short french baguette. I chose to brush it with a Persian lime-infused butter and cook it directly over coals on my Weber. Preparation is similar to a pizza dough...

0.25-oz. Active Dry Yeast
1-C Warm Water
1-T Sugar
1-T Kosher Salt
3-C All-Purpose Flour (More as needed)
1/2-C Melter Butter
Juice of 1 Lime

Whisk the yeast, sugar, and warm water together and set aside for ten minutes. Combine the flour and salt in a stand mixer, then mix on medium-low with the dough-hook, slowly adding the yeast mixture and 1/4-C of melted butter. Gradually increase the speed to medium-high, kneading until the dough appears smooth and elastic (10+ minutes). Add additional flour if needed. When finished, shape the dough into a ball, rub the inside of a large bowl with melted butter, and allow to rise covered with a damp towel for 1.5 hours. Combine the remaining butter and lime juice in a small bowl. Punch the dough down, and divide into four equal portions. Cover with a moist towel and allow to rise again. Roll the dough out into 1/8"-1/4" thick rounds, and brush them lightly with the lime butter. Grill over hot coals, flipping once to finish. The final bread should be crispy, bubbly, and well textured within.

The Kabab-e Kubideh technique involves using large flat skewers that look like primitive swords. I'm guessing this might have something to do with the original cooking technique! A finely ground seasoned forcemeat is molded around the skewers and grilled over the coals - but not touching any grates or racks. I decided that I wanted grill marks, along with a fast sear and corresponding juicy interior so I grilled directly on my grate. Instead of using the $20 swords I bought, I fashioned long (but thin and relatively narrow) patties. These were spectacular, and far superior to any restaurant kababs or gyro-loaf I've tasted. One key is to really squeeze all the moisture from the pureed onions that your arms can manage. Using parchment as a transfer device for the patties works well.

1-lb Ground Lamb Shoulder
1-lb Ground Chuck
1 Large Common Onion
1-T Powdered Sumac (Available from Iranian Shops & Spice Vendors)
1-t Freshly Ground Black Pepper
2-t Kosher Salt
1/2-t Turmeric

Peel and roughly chop the onion, then puree to a very fine mince in a food processor. Pour the contents into a flour sack towel, and remove as much moisture as possible. Return them to the stand mixer and add the ground meats and remaining ingredients. Process to a forcemeat consistency, then wrap in plastic and chill for at least 3 hours. Separate the meat into four portions, and press out on parchment paper to 1/8-1/4" thick strips. Grill over hot coals, turning once. Be sure not to over cook!

In the future I will serve the kababs with rice, but the Nan-e Barabari makes for a faster alternative that resembles a high-end gyro.

I'll be trying the remaining recipes over the next few days.

 

[Andy M.]

Nick, if you have a potato ricer, they work great for squeezing juice out of onions or cukes. I use one to squeeze the water out of thawed frozen spinach among other things.

 

[Nicholas Mosher]

Interesting! So do you use cheesecloth or a towel inside? I have a ricer, but I'm not sure if it would hold the onion mince (given it's size) without passing it through. I imagine it would work perfectly with some sort of filter (like the towels I use), and provide significant mechanical leverage for an easier motion.


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I keep tearing off pieces of the leftover Kabab and dipping it in the Maast...

 

[Andy M.]

For something that fine, cheesecloth would do the trick.

 

[Nicholas Mosher]

Andy - I'll be adding that trick to my recipe for sure!
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I should also mention one other dynamic of this dish. The grilled cherry tomatoes burst open when cut with the side of a fork, and their juices mix with the Maast, and also the juices and lime butter of the kabab. It makes an amazing sauce that soaks into the bread and coats the lettuce/onions. I found it to be one of the most enjoyable aspects of the meal. So remember to include the grilled tomatoes!

 

[Andy M.]

Nick, my heritage is Armenian. As such, we have lots of foods in common with Persians.
This Kabab-e Kubideh is similar to a Luleh Kebab that my family is familiar with:


1 Lb Ground Beef
1 Lb Ground Lamb
1 Large Onion
½ C Parsley
¼ tsp Black Pepper
¼ tsp Cayenne Pepper (optional)
2 tsp Salt
½ tsp Allspice
½ tsp Cumin
⅓ C Tomato Sauce

I use a FP on the onion, parsley and tomato in this recipe but don't have to drain it.

The yogurt with cucumbers is another we have in common (with minor variations). But this combo with differences in seasonings is also familiar to Greeks (tzatziki) and Indians (raita).

I have a Cookbook, "Secrets of Cooking Armenian/Lebanese/Persian" by Linda Chirinian. It's interesting because it provides recipe differences for dishes for each of the cultures.

 

[Nicholas Mosher]

Andy - I can see how similarities would exist given Armenia's geographic location. I noticed in my books and research that Middle-Eastern kababs had more intense seasonings added to the forcemeat such as cumin, allspice, coriander, and oregano as the transition to Mediterranean locals such as Turkey and Greece occurred.

Sumac was a new spice for me, and is quite interesting. It doesn't have much aroma (beyond a slight hint of lemon), but it alters the salty/sour/bitter/sweet profile. I'd liken it to a (somehow) savory dried and ground cranberry. Without any knowledge, I wouldn't have added it to the meat. It's one of those marvels of cooking, where an odd ingredient makes something much better in chorus.
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Too much food in the 'fridge. Have to hold off on the remaining dishes for a couple days until we've eaten our way to the back of the 'fridge...

 

[Andy M.]

One has to keep in mind that food does not recognize political borders. These dishes evolved hundreds or thousands of years ago when people traveled the region without regard for borders and carried their foods with them.

Thus it is inappropriate to refer to a dish such as paklava/bakalva as a Greek, Turkish or Armenian food. It's none of them and all of them. The same goes for chunks of lamb on a skewer cooked over an open fire (insert your name and country of "origin" for this food here) and many many others.

 

[Nicholas Mosher]

Perhaps not, but regional differences certainly occur - and make each "base" dish that much more interesting!

 

[Andy M.]

Perhaps not, but regional differences certainly occur - and make each "base" dish that much more interesting!

I agree. The combinations of spices and herbs and other flavorings will vary from region to region and are enough to give the knowledgeable diner a very good idea of his location.

 

[Linux]

Gosh, Nicholas, that looks terrific!

 

[Nicholas Mosher]

Linux - Thanks!
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Still working on the recipes. Had a busy week and had to take a break from the experimentation. Had one Jujeh Kabab that turned out less than acceptable (issues with my marinade). I'll be giving it another go tonight along with the rice dish.

 

[Nicholas Mosher]

I found the Javaher Polow recipe from "New Food of Life" by Najmieh Batmanglij to be less than spectacular. It lacked salt, and was sickeningly sweet between the dried berries, candied orange zest, and candied carrots. That said, her timing and method to create the crispy tadig worked flawlessly!

I'm going to keep the same ingredients, but mess around with the recipe a bit. I also might add a bit of finely sliced scallion for additional color/aroma/flavor. The aim is for a more balanced flavor profile.

I must admit that the Persian method of boiling and rinsing rice is a bit odd. I didn't notice much of a difference in fluff-factor, so I might just go for a western-style pilaf. I imagine I could create a slab of tadig on the side while the rice rests, then serve it up together... no one would be any the wiser!

EDIT: For those unfamiliar with Persian food, Tadig is a crispy round of rice that forms on the bottom of the pot. It's similar to a pan-fried risotto cake - but huge, and cut into wedges.