Honey Bee Keeping and other pollinators

[blissful]

We're on bee check #21. Another set of varroa virus medication strips was introduced and later removed, hoping to lower the mite count. Top feeders arrived and we're feeding sugar syrup and pollen patties to fortify the hives for winter. The bees eat that and store extra energy in the brood box for the coldest months of the year.
The supers and medium boxes with frames that had honey spun out of just have comb in them. They are susceptible to wax moths in storage. We treated them by spraying them with BT (same thing we use on the garden for greens) which is a bacteria that doesn't harm bees or humans but stops moths. After drying the frames are stacked and covered for winter.

 

[larry_stewart]

Just caught myself up on this thread.
Nice documentation of the process.
I knew it was a lot of work, but not this much. I applaud you for taking on the challenge. That tent is HUGE, It reminds me of when I saw the movie ET, and they build that huge isolation tent around him , I'm sure you're both excited about the whole process, and relieved you'll soon be able to take a well deserved break.

 

[blissful]

We figure it takes about an hour a week to keep up with the bee's needs and it was 3 to 4 hives.
For regular bee keepers without insulated hives, this is the time of year people are getting insulation taped around the hives, blankets, to give the bees insulation against the winter cold.

This week we put in top feeders with a thicker solution of sugar/water for them to top off their energy supplies for winter. There is a pollen patty to feed them as well.

I'm finally glad we did get the tent. We'll add in a few more hives in spring. Our friend is also adding one or two hives. The honey extraction will probably take 2 days next year and the tent will be perfect for that. I asked my youngest son (out in ND) if he might join us next year during that time. That would be fun.

We have an additional 10 frames of honey to extract. We'll do those in the basement when we have time. When do we ever have enough time?

The bee population is down quite a bit as most of the worker bees that collected honey are dying off and the winter bees are being born. The winter bees live through winter instead of 2-3 weeks.

We also decided recently to get a little equipment (shallow hives) just for comb honey. Many people are asking about buying some honey in the comb and buying honey, which we'll do next year.

 

[larry_stewart]

Any update soon the hives? or his it pretty much see ya next spring? What kind oof maintenance is required during the winter months ?

 

[blissful]

Any update soon the hives? or his it pretty much see ya next spring? What kind oof maintenance is required during the winter months ?

Oh yes, sorry, there is upkeep but not as much. The bees can't tolerate very cold air as they try to keep the brood warm all winter. We can't be opening them much or often.

After the honey, there was a bee varroa mite treatment, either some pads of treatment for 2 weeks, or there is a vaporized treatment.

We lost one hive in fall and we don't know why. The queen was gone and all the bees dissipated. It could have swarmed but no signs of swarm cells. The queen could have just died. The mite treatment could have hurt them too much. The hive box and frames are in good shape, so we don't know why.

Then for winter, later this week the temperatures will hit 40 deg F for a few hours in the afternoons, we'll add a candy board, or bee fondant. Essentially a candy made of cane sugar (boiled to candy stage in flat sheets). This will slowly absorb moisture which is good for the hive, since excess moisture can kill a hive. The bees will eat it before depleting their honey supply during winter. Adding the candy will be quick so the hive doesn't cool down too much. It's placed on top of the hive box in a shallow box with hardware cloth, candy sits on the hardware cloth, bees eat it from the bottom. (I'll be making the bee candy this week sometime.)

Also, we added a wind break, to shelter the bee hives from the cold west wind. A panel of wood, 8x10 feet, one side two 2x4's, with heavy stakes, to hold it in place, so the west wind doesn't cool it off too much midwinter. We could move this if necessary, but a tall solid fence would do this also. Even a fence with tarp across it would help stop the winds at the hives.

Our neighbor, Zach, we've been teaching while learning ourselves joined the bee club too, monthly meetings most educational and social. He is putting in two hives in spring and has started buying the equipment. We gave him 2 supers for a christmas gift.

We'll be putting in 5 more hives in spring. So instead of just one area in the yard, with grass removed, bricks put down, hives on top, we'll have two areas, one on the west side, and the added one on the south east side. Zach's hives (2) and our hives (8), 10 in total.

Zach really wants to sell honey, and he wants to design his and our honey labels. Next year we'll all be selling honey.

No weekly maintenance in winter. Watch out for bears. Maybe make a path through the snow out to the hives so we can start checking them in spring when the weather warms up again.

In spring, there will be checks to see if they made it through winter. Adding more bee candy and pollen patties (buy) to get them nutrition so the queen will start building a strong spring/summer brood. Pollen patties encourage growth. I'm not sure what month that will happen, maybe March or April?

For starting new hives, buying/reserving queens and bees in Feb/march with them arriving April/May. Everything needs to be in place, so the new apiary grass removed, bricks added (or pavers), hives set up.

 

[blissful]

All winter mr bliss built hives and supers, bottom boards, top boards, covers. Seriously, built and painted, and put sheet metal tops on them. 8 hives.
Our bees are coming today, 3 lb packages with queens.
I think it will be too cold to install them late this afternoon but it's up to mr bliss.
I have a question and I don't know the answer, so if anyone here knows this, maybe you can help.

The outside temperature is about 40 right now (it will be in the 50's tomorrow and in the 30's at night, Degrees F).
The air temperature inside the insulated wood hive is about 40.
The volume of the inside is 2.15 cubic feet. The feeder that goes into the hive has a volume of 0.133 cubic feet (one gallon).
If we put warmed syrup in the feeder and the temperature of the syrup is 100 deg F. When all the heat from the feeder/syrup is transferred to equalize the air/and syrup temperature, what will the temperature be in the hive?
I want to know what the temperature in the hive will be overnight, assuming no loss. (there will be loss but I don't want those calculations)

 

[dragnlaw]

Gads, wish I knew the answer for you bliss, but perhaps you can cover them (somehow) for the night?
I guess it would have to be a tent like thing so they would have their freedom to get out in the morning when warm enough.

 

[larry_stewart]

All winter mr bliss built hives and supers, bottom boards, top boards, covers. Seriously, built and painted, and put sheet metal tops on them. 8 hives.
Our bees are coming today, 3 lb packages with queens.
I think it will be too cold to install them late this afternoon but it's up to mr bliss.
I have a question and I don't know the answer, so if anyone here knows this, maybe you can help.

The outside temperature is about 40 right now (it will be in the 50's tomorrow and in the 30's at night, Degrees F).
The air temperature inside the insulated wood hive is about 40.
The volume of the inside is 2.15 cubic feet. The feeder that goes into the hive has a volume of 0.133 cubic feet (one gallon).
If we put warmed syrup in the feeder and the temperature of the syrup is 100 deg F. When all the heat from the feeder/syrup is transferred to equalize the air/and syrup temperature, what will the temperature be in the hive?
I want to know what the temperature in the hive will be overnight, assuming no loss. (there will be loss but I don't want those calculations)

I dont know the answer, but knowing me, when I get up in the middle of the night with nothing to do, ll probably dig up my college physics book and try to figure it out ( I've been known to do that). Hopefully there's an egghead amongst us who can do it quicker than I can ( assuming I could).

 

[blissful]

I'm running out of time to figure it out. ....someone here is probably versed enough in some kind of heat dynamics to help.
I think we might need to know the syrup properties, it's a 0.77:1 ratio of sugar to water.
0.9375 gallons consisting of 4.5lbs sugar and 5.85lbs of water.
Are there any other important numbers we need?

 

[blissful]

Gads, wish I knew the answer for you bliss, but perhaps you can cover them (somehow) for the night?
I guess it would have to be a tent like thing so they would have their freedom to get out in the morning when warm enough.

Bees don't like to be installed in one location and moved to another.. I'm concerned with the initial temperature. Bees are able to maintain a temperature of 98 deg F (something close to that), by clustering once they have warmed their environment. If they start out a little warmer, they'll make it through the night (30 deg F).

@dragnlaw and @larry_stewart I so appreciate your concern!
Some internet sights are saying don't install them at below 45 to 50, and we are at 43, so my concern.

 

[larry_stewart]

I just texted my daughter who graduated with and applied mathematics and environmental science degree, and works at Johns Hopkins applied physics lab. Still waiting for her to get back to me. She usually deals with Submarines, so not sure she can help. Even if she could, not sure when she'll get back to me, but the word is out. But Im pretty sure either she or her egg head colleagues may have an idea.

 

[blissful]

Thanks @larry_stewart !
It looks like we're putting it off to tomorrow but I'm still interested in the temperature. We'll be heating the syrup with a sous vide right before filling the feeders and installing the bees. It will only be a little warmer but over 50 deg F outside.

 

[taxlady]

I love your question, Bliss

 

[dragnlaw]

bliss I didn't mean to tent them inside. But outside in their hives. But again, I guess it's too late for that. Sorry.

 

[blissful]

bliss I didn't mean to tent them inside. But outside in their hives. But again, I guess it's too late for that. Sorry.

no, I got it. We do have a big tent, but to put it up we'd have to move hives, then install, then we'd have to move them again to take down the tent, and that would only be 4 hives, not all the hives at both ends of the property. The idea is good, but too much work. And thank you!

 

[dragnlaw]

I guess had I remembered the size of your tent I would have realized that it was impractical, LOL. I think I was thinking more of a gazebo type with some blankets.






;

 

[blissful]

@dragnlaw it's okay, those hives are heavy. I'm going to worry about the bees in the garage tonight, hoping not too many die. I noticed the pear tree is about to bloom, and it's right by the east hives. Those bees are in for a treat with that tree right there first thing tomorrow. The dandelions are just starting in the lawn, I hope we have a good crop of them for the bees.

I'm nervous and excited about tomorrow. I'll get the syrup warm and into gallon jugs and put myself into my big bee suit (which is always too warm for summer), which will be just right for a cooler spring day. Mr bliss needs to be at work at 1, so we'll be getting it done in the morning around noon.

 

[blissful]

edit to add: I used an inexpensive sous vide (my Sous-Vide) to heat the syrup and it worked great. It heated up 4 gallons of syrup in 10 minutes to 100 deg F. (this is good since I'd only use a sous vide for meat which we don't eat now, so I guess I'll keep it for heating syrup.)

Installed bees in 8 hives today. 4 in the east side, and 4 in the west side of the yard.
The procedure to install the bees into the hives:
Hive is open has 3 frames and a full syrup feeder frame.

Remove the tin can from the box of bees and get the little box w/queen out, put the can back in place in the big box so the bees stay in the box. The queen box is attached to a metal strip, you can see a little metal just to the right of the tin can end on the top of the big box.
(not my pictures)

Brush the bees off the queen box.

Remove the cork from the end of the queen box and stuff a small marshmallow in its place. The bees will eat the marshmallow and then the queen can walk out. Place the small box between two frames with the wax of the frames holding it in place, the marshmallow end placed so the bees can eat it.

On the big box of bees, pound the box on the ground three times to loosen the bees into the bottom of the box, cut the screen on 3 sides and pour them out of the box and into the hive. Many bees are left in the box, it is placed on the ground right at the entrance to the hive, so they can walk out and into the entrance of the hive. A lot of bees are now in the air too, maybe 200. They calm down and go into the hive within about 15 minutes.

3 more frames are added to the hive, brush any piled up bees into the frames then replace the interior cover then the main cover.

Adding a pollen patty:
The patties lay on top of the frames. Then the inner cover back on and the outer cover, a brick on top.
Now they don't get checked for at least 10 days except to check to make sure the feeders aren't empty and refill as needed. (because the flowers aren't in full bloom yet, they need their nutrition)
Pollen patties are made with pollen and provide the protein element and nutrition which sugar syrup doesn't provide.

The temperature was about 48 deg F and the sun was bright, no wind. The bees LOVED the sun side of the hives, sunning themselves until later.

 

[blissful]

Wisconsin flow for bees

 

[larry_stewart]

I keep a similar chart oof everything I have on my property so I know when the best time too have my solitary bees delivered.