Chico Buller
Washing Up
I was having a debate in another forum with a gentleman quite distinquished in the craft. For someone seeking information I'm sure they might have wondered just who's right and why. There are many debates among knife users, sharpeners and cutlers, and here are a few.
1). Cutlery steel and alloys. This is one of the biggest and oldest debates running. Many of the old butchers and professional boners on kill floors (like Oscar Mayer, for example) claim that only carbon steel can be sharpened--and at one time, they were right. When stainless first came out for knives and firearms most of the alloys were like 17ph, very gummy on drill presses, and the knives sharpened like a chocolate bar. When high carbon (low chromium) steels like 154-CM became available somewhere in the 1970's, the game changed. Stainless knives are now some of the sharpest, and used for scalpels and other research equipment.
2). Shape of the edges. You want to start a fight, ask which edge is better, that being hollow grind, V-grind or convex edge. In old Japanese texts there are names for all, so I guess the debate has raged for 1,000 years. Since steel has gotten more durable and heat treating more precise, thicker edges are not necessary on many types of knives. Like all aspects of a good debate, you'll never sell that idea to vast numbers or knife collectors.
3). Toothy or polished. What's the best edge? Should it be 'rough' to grab hold of things needed to cut, or 'mirror finished' to slide through material. Simply, it depends on what needs to be cut. If I had to cut wet rope or seatbelts, even I would choose a more toothy edge. Now, serrations are different, and an ingenious solution to a non-existent problem.
4). German or Japanese. Careful here. Lots of "Japanese" knives are made in China and are not (laminated), folded or clad. These are made in the Japanese 'style,' meaning they are shaped like traditional examples. If you buy Japanese knives (or want to start) simply research the brand on the computer. As for German brands, the same warning applies. Learn what they mean by the terms "stainless" and "surgical."
5). Honing and sharpening. Yikes, there's a book waiting to be written. In the basic sense, "honing" is maintenance, sharpening is "repair." And after years behind a stone, I no longer believe you can buy a stone and a book and sharpen--anything. You should see the clients who bring me a knife and say, "I sharpened it and now it is more dull than when I began." If this is a sincere interest for you, buy cheap knives at garage sales and practice, and I mean for several months. There numerous DVDs and tutorials on Youtube. During your early study, avoid mechanized equipment.
6). Cutting boards. Another can of worms. Study history. Do some research by actually making some cuts. No matter what board you choose, six people will jump into the fray and tell you that it is wrong. A good gyuto, deba or nakiri is an investment, and plainly your knife. And you will be the one who pays for repairs.
7). Handles. There is no advice here. Each hand is different, and each handle is different in length and width. Go to a kitchen store showing numerous brands. This is one area where I suggest you take no advice. If you are left-handed, like my wife, remember that some models are made for lefties and I would ask. I would advise getting a knife whose handle can be immersed in hot soapy water.
These are but some of the major debates. And I'll get PMs on this post despite trying to depict both sides. However, in my kitchen, amongst my tools, and in my pockets are a cavalcade of makers, blade grinds, alloys and designs. When you need a German chisel, a Japanese nakiri will not do the job. My closing advice is to pick and choose, learn the craft. Your neighbor is not the one who is going to dice your vegetables amid questionable advice about a poorly designed knife--but you might.
1). Cutlery steel and alloys. This is one of the biggest and oldest debates running. Many of the old butchers and professional boners on kill floors (like Oscar Mayer, for example) claim that only carbon steel can be sharpened--and at one time, they were right. When stainless first came out for knives and firearms most of the alloys were like 17ph, very gummy on drill presses, and the knives sharpened like a chocolate bar. When high carbon (low chromium) steels like 154-CM became available somewhere in the 1970's, the game changed. Stainless knives are now some of the sharpest, and used for scalpels and other research equipment.
2). Shape of the edges. You want to start a fight, ask which edge is better, that being hollow grind, V-grind or convex edge. In old Japanese texts there are names for all, so I guess the debate has raged for 1,000 years. Since steel has gotten more durable and heat treating more precise, thicker edges are not necessary on many types of knives. Like all aspects of a good debate, you'll never sell that idea to vast numbers or knife collectors.
3). Toothy or polished. What's the best edge? Should it be 'rough' to grab hold of things needed to cut, or 'mirror finished' to slide through material. Simply, it depends on what needs to be cut. If I had to cut wet rope or seatbelts, even I would choose a more toothy edge. Now, serrations are different, and an ingenious solution to a non-existent problem.
4). German or Japanese. Careful here. Lots of "Japanese" knives are made in China and are not (laminated), folded or clad. These are made in the Japanese 'style,' meaning they are shaped like traditional examples. If you buy Japanese knives (or want to start) simply research the brand on the computer. As for German brands, the same warning applies. Learn what they mean by the terms "stainless" and "surgical."
5). Honing and sharpening. Yikes, there's a book waiting to be written. In the basic sense, "honing" is maintenance, sharpening is "repair." And after years behind a stone, I no longer believe you can buy a stone and a book and sharpen--anything. You should see the clients who bring me a knife and say, "I sharpened it and now it is more dull than when I began." If this is a sincere interest for you, buy cheap knives at garage sales and practice, and I mean for several months. There numerous DVDs and tutorials on Youtube. During your early study, avoid mechanized equipment.
6). Cutting boards. Another can of worms. Study history. Do some research by actually making some cuts. No matter what board you choose, six people will jump into the fray and tell you that it is wrong. A good gyuto, deba or nakiri is an investment, and plainly your knife. And you will be the one who pays for repairs.
7). Handles. There is no advice here. Each hand is different, and each handle is different in length and width. Go to a kitchen store showing numerous brands. This is one area where I suggest you take no advice. If you are left-handed, like my wife, remember that some models are made for lefties and I would ask. I would advise getting a knife whose handle can be immersed in hot soapy water.
These are but some of the major debates. And I'll get PMs on this post despite trying to depict both sides. However, in my kitchen, amongst my tools, and in my pockets are a cavalcade of makers, blade grinds, alloys and designs. When you need a German chisel, a Japanese nakiri will not do the job. My closing advice is to pick and choose, learn the craft. Your neighbor is not the one who is going to dice your vegetables amid questionable advice about a poorly designed knife--but you might.