It's about $2 from Temu.
2 From the Tool Box to the Kitchen Drawer
- Thread starter obillo
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Andy M.
Certified Pretend Chef
. . . or just don't tighten it so much.
obillo, I just always wash lids if there has been even just the slightest bit of stick while opening. Hard lesson to learn but it works!
From sweet stuff to milk stuffs, works for me.
But I also have a tiny, tiny adjustable wrench, have no idea where I got it from but heaven help the man who tries to use it.
OTOH, nice trick on cutting the lid - good one, will remember it.
From sweet stuff to milk stuffs, works for me.
But I also have a tiny, tiny adjustable wrench, have no idea where I got it from but heaven help the man who tries to use it.
OTOH, nice trick on cutting the lid - good one, will remember it.
My 10% cream comes with a lid that isn't on tight. It's not sealed. You find the pull off seal once you take off the lid.
taxy, are you saying that you put the pull off seal back? How would you do that? The ones I get are meant to be thrown away. It is not them that gets stuck. It's with use that the cap starts to get gummy and sticks, at least that's what I've found.
Whether or not the screw on lid is on tight or not when I buy it, I put it on fairly tight after the pull seal is gone. Last thing I need is cream or egg white all over the place when next I use it!
Whether or not the screw on lid is on tight or not when I buy it, I put it on fairly tight after the pull seal is gone. Last thing I need is cream or egg white all over the place when next I use it!
Dragn, no, I don't put the pull seal back. I don't think you can. I'm saying that the lid isn't on too tight on the cream when I buy it. I twist the lid back on reasonably tight - finger tight, not wrench tight. I can't remember ever having the lid on a carton of cream or milk get stuck after it has been opened. Sure, I have had the lids on jars get stuck because there was food sticking them shut and I usually remember to clean the lid and top of the jar for things that easily glue the lid shut. I'll do it for a jar of jam or a bottle of oyster sauce, but not the bottle of fish sauce.
LOL, you are very neat with your cream taxy!
I've had those little suckers stick, but more with the liquid egg whites. It is at that point I have had to use my teeny pliers, all the while sweating that I don't mishappen them. LOL - but now I try to remember to wipe/wash rimis and lids.
I usually buy my milk in bags but the few times I've had to buy cartons - I try scrupulously to keep those caps clean. Not only to prevent sticking but those caps tend to smell/stink after multiple openings. Just a bit of milk on the ridges is all it takes - I'm a bit sensitive to smell.
I've had those little suckers stick, but more with the liquid egg whites. It is at that point I have had to use my teeny pliers, all the while sweating that I don't mishappen them. LOL - but now I try to remember to wipe/wash rimis and lids.
I usually buy my milk in bags but the few times I've had to buy cartons - I try scrupulously to keep those caps clean. Not only to prevent sticking but those caps tend to smell/stink after multiple openings. Just a bit of milk on the ridges is all it takes - I'm a bit sensitive to smell.
Me, neat, hahahaha. More likely it's just luck.
Paid In Grapes
Assistant Cook
I addition to some of the tools already mentioned, I have a small pair of tin snips that I use to open heavy hard plastic packaging, to cut up plastic packaging (like the jars peanuts come in) and the occasional can that I use that has a bottom that can not be opened normally. I have no recycling for cans or plastic where I live and I prefer to not waste the space in my trash bags.
Even better are aviation snips, which are nimble, light in weight, and allow for more precise cutting. But plain old tin snips will indeed suffice, and will do a better job than most of the purpose-built doodads hawked in recent years, most of which are nearly worthless while some are dangerous.
Marlingardener
Sous Chef
I have three pairs of $1 scissors from the grilling gear area of Walmart. They will cut through almost anything! I cut the bottom off large Pepsi bottles to make mini-greenhouses. Added feature is the "church key" feature on the back of one blade.
Andy M.
Certified Pretend Chef
I have kitchen shears for Chicago Cutlery I use to cut heavy plastic in bubble packs etc. I also sometimes used utility knife I keep for opening shipping boxes.
I have a silicon brush I bought at the Dollar Tree I have had forever that I like quite well.
Also silicon spatulas are great. You know when you make a killer reduction sauce and just can't scrape every last drop of that liquid gold out of the pan using a spoon? I have a few silicon spatulas of varying sizes that are great for that, also for scraping out that last bit of mayonnaise or peanut butter from the jar.
Sorry for the late delay but just joined last week, LOL. Did you try running it through the dishwasher? What do you use it for? If you use it for food stuff do you really want to use WD-40 on it?
Rascal
Head Chef
Exact same one I have. Ours was a free gift when buying something we never use now.
Ours is yellow.
Russ
pepperhead212
Master Chef
That was going to be my suggestion, except for 2 coats of the poly. That stuff dries fast, and drawers take a beating, at least inside. And be sure to use the full extension slides! I can't believe they even make those 3/4 extensions still!
"I’m thinking maybe a quick single coat of water-based poly, but I’m open to other suggestions."
I find the oil base polyurethane stands up better - the trick I've learned is to thin the oil base poly with 'paint thinner' - 2 parts by volume poly to 1 part thinner.
this soaks into the wood faster/better - brush on, wipe off to get an even finish.
if the wood is exceptional 'thirsty' a second, same procedure as the first, should produce a nice even thin sheen.
I find the oil base polyurethane stands up better - the trick I've learned is to thin the oil base poly with 'paint thinner' - 2 parts by volume poly to 1 part thinner.
this soaks into the wood faster/better - brush on, wipe off to get an even finish.
if the wood is exceptional 'thirsty' a second, same procedure as the first, should produce a nice even thin sheen.
pepperhead212
Master Chef
I use oil based polyurethane for just about everything else, but technically the water based is the only one that can be "food grade", plus, it takes quite a while to get the solvent totally evaporated, and, with a gas range, I remember that smell that hung on a long time in my kitchen from that shelf I built for my jars. And that's out in the open, not closed up, like drawers.
not experienced odors from oil base. I wonder if the thinning and wiping mitigates the problem?
my knife block I saturated with mineral oil.
other things are thinned oil poly and don't create an issue - and , , , , believe me , , , my DW is ultra-super sensitive to such things . . .
the 'paper towel rack' - maple
the "scale house" - red oak
my knife block I saturated with mineral oil.
other things are thinned oil poly and don't create an issue - and , , , , believe me , , , my DW is ultra-super sensitive to such things . . .
the 'paper towel rack' - maple
the "scale house" - red oak
